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Can my alternator take another 1000 watt amp?

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Can my alternator take another 1000 watt amp?

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I have a T1500-1bd powering a single T215D4 wired in parallel (sub woofer see's 1000 watts). I'm interested in adding a 4 channel amp and I was looking at getting a T1000-4 and powering a set of TXC6.1 <Mod Edit: Linked to Manufacturer's site. Please link to Crutchfield's Item Page or manufacturer's website. Thanks.> and a set of TXC6.0 <Mod Edit: Linked to Manufacturer's site. Please link to Crutchfield's Item Page or manufacturer's website. Thanks.>speakers.I currently have a 5 farad capacitor attatched to my amp that half the time doesn't even get enough power pushed through it to light it up (I don't keep it cranked up all the time, just every once in awhile when I'm riding around with friends).

I drive a 2000 Mitsubishi Montero Sport LS and I've searched and searched but cannot seem to find an amperage rating for the alternator and there isn't one in the instruction manual that came with it. What does this board think about the ability of my alternator to take another 1000 watts. I didn't think to check ON the alternator, do you think it might say somewhere on there?



[edited by: TigerHeli at 7:11 AM (GMT -5) on Sat, Jun 27 2009] Was: http://www.mitekfactoryoutlet.com/products/brand.cfm?brand=3&detail=ok&PN=TXC6.1&Site=1 http://www.mitekfactoryoutlet.com/products/brand.cfm?brand=3&detail=ok&PN=TXC6.0&Site=1
Verified Answer
  • I'm going to say you will be okay, but I can't promise that ...

    First off, your speakers are 4-ohms, so the new amp is 600W.

    Second, accoding to AutoZone, the replacement alternator is 90A for your vehicle, so I'm guessing that's what the stock one is.

    Now - if you look here, and put in 1000W Class D, and 600W Class A, the system at peak output and clipping is drawing 178A.

    91A from the sub, and 87A from the main speakers.

    But - that is only when the bass hits and with it cranked.

    So, on average, the sub is probably drawing about 30A, and the main amp could draw about the same, but b/c of the nature of audio, you tend to crank the subs amp more and subs tend to draw more, so I would figure maybe 30A for the sub and 20A for the main amp - leaving 40A for everything else.

    I can't say for sure that's enough, but I would be more worried if you were having voltage problems with the main amp and wanted to add a sub than with no problems with the sub amp and wanting to add a main amp - if that makes sense.

    A yellow top battery is UNLIKELY to help.

    As far as what can happen ...

    Usually, you can't leave your headlights on and expect your alternator to charge the battery back up - if the battery is too far gone it won't charge back up, and you can damage the alternator trying that.

    In this specific case - let's say the audio system and car is drawing 110A and the alternator is putting out 90A.  The most likely scenario is that the battery gradually drains down as you are driving and the car won't start the next morning.

    People say the alternator actually powers the car and the battery is just for starting, but that isn't quite true - especially on newer cars.  You would notice things like your lights not being as bright, and possibly a stumble in the ignition or the car dying at a traffic stop.  If you kept going until the battery was really dead, you could also damage the alternator b/c you are putting a huge strain on it.

    BlackChevy's comment on minutes is a bit misleading as well - if you see Yel's comments in the last linked thread here.  The capacitor will discharge in a matter of seconds - then it starts trying to charge back up - then it discharges again, etc.  Probably if you had the system cranked for 15 minutes or so, the capacitor would be out of the system - then you start draining the battery, and that could take an hour or more, but ....  Every time you drain the battery it is less likely to respond (take a charge), and the alternator works harder when you start the car - so everything is in worse shape.

    Hope This Helps!!!

     

    2002 Ford Focus JVC KD-A815 Sony CDX-GT410u Sony XT-100HD HD Tuner Stock speakers, no amp, no subs

All Replies
  • If it's stock I doubt it.  I don't know the exact amperage rating, but I do know that it's less than 100 amperes.  For a 12 volt system, a 100 ampere alternator can handle up to 1,380 watts of continuous power, while the capacitor handles the peaks.  However, you have to think about the other power draining systems (lights, stereo head unit, etc.).  So in reality, you're probably already draining more power from your alternator than it can handle.

     

    Oh, and a 2000 Mitsubishi Montero Sport is not a very good vehicle.  They had problems with stalling and the alternator going out and the alternator shorting, etc.  People who have owned them have replaced the alternator with a new one at least 4 times in 6 months before giving up and getting a new car.  Just google "2000 Mitsubishi Montero Sport alternator" and you'll see what I mean.

    1992 Chevrolet pickup; Jensen VM9412 HU; Alpine 4x6 2-way dash speakers x 2; Pyle Blue Label 4x6 3-way rear speakers x 2; Pyle Blue Label 12" subs x 2; Crunch GVP700.2 "Ground Pounder" subwoofer amplifier; Custom Subwoofer box

  • If I was already pushing it wouldn't I notice some kind of dimming on the lights under normal use? The only time my lights barely dim are when it is turned ALL the way up and the bass boosted in the most extreme way (I have a pioneer head unit that allows for several different bass boost seetings (Loud setting, EQ setting, dedicated bass boost, and individual frequency bass boost) on top of that I have the Punch Remote EQ. While some may have had electrical problems with their vehicles I do not feel as though mine is being pushed at all right now. I didn't see that many montero sport alternator troubles when I googled it and quite honestly when you talk about the mass production of anything quality control is a sort of asymptotic curve you can get close to everything being perfect but there are always going to be those left out.

    I don't mean to argue but, with my headlights barely dimming under full power I find it hard to believe it is being pushed at all right now.



    [edited by: tuffguy45 at 11:30 AM (GMT -5) on Fri, Jun 26 2009]
  • The capacitor helps keep the dimming of the lights to a minimum.  It can take the extra straing at high volumes, but not for long.  If you hardly ever turn it up all the way, it might not draw too much power.  But at full power with a stock alternator, the system would likely draw more than the alternator can handle.  A general rule for capacitors is 1 farad per 500 watts power.  A 5 farad capacitor would be good for up to a 2500 watt system.  But as I've said, it wouldn't take the strain for too long.

     

    About the Montero, I know a person who had one and they had the same problems.  Also there are several discussions online about similar problems.  If your's isn't having any problems, then that's very good.



    [edited by: blackchevy92 at 12:14 PM (GMT -5) on Fri, Jun 26 2009]

    1992 Chevrolet pickup; Jensen VM9412 HU; Alpine 4x6 2-way dash speakers x 2; Pyle Blue Label 4x6 3-way rear speakers x 2; Pyle Blue Label 12" subs x 2; Crunch GVP700.2 "Ground Pounder" subwoofer amplifier; Custom Subwoofer box

  • Guess I should consider myself fotunate, when you say "not for very long" do you mean 5 minutes or several hours? Like I said I would have it turned up all the on a pretty rare ocassion and I'm mostly looking for great sound. What happens if I zap the battery? Would my car just cut off and I'd have to wait until the alternator had a chance to recharge the battery? Similar to leaving your headlights on for awhile?

    I guess it would be a little dangerous if I was driving and it cut off as opposed to just sitting there...

  • I'm not sure.  Definitely minutes.

     

    If you drain the battery too far, you'll have to replace it.  I'm not sure if the engine would continue running but I don't know.  Most likely the car would stop and if the battery was drained too far, it would be very hard to start without jumper cables.

    1992 Chevrolet pickup; Jensen VM9412 HU; Alpine 4x6 2-way dash speakers x 2; Pyle Blue Label 4x6 3-way rear speakers x 2; Pyle Blue Label 12" subs x 2; Crunch GVP700.2 "Ground Pounder" subwoofer amplifier; Custom Subwoofer box

  • So to be safe I'd probably be better off getting a high out alternator? or maybe one of those yellow top optima batteries?

  • I'm going to say you will be okay, but I can't promise that ...

    First off, your speakers are 4-ohms, so the new amp is 600W.

    Second, accoding to AutoZone, the replacement alternator is 90A for your vehicle, so I'm guessing that's what the stock one is.

    Now - if you look here, and put in 1000W Class D, and 600W Class A, the system at peak output and clipping is drawing 178A.

    91A from the sub, and 87A from the main speakers.

    But - that is only when the bass hits and with it cranked.

    So, on average, the sub is probably drawing about 30A, and the main amp could draw about the same, but b/c of the nature of audio, you tend to crank the subs amp more and subs tend to draw more, so I would figure maybe 30A for the sub and 20A for the main amp - leaving 40A for everything else.

    I can't say for sure that's enough, but I would be more worried if you were having voltage problems with the main amp and wanted to add a sub than with no problems with the sub amp and wanting to add a main amp - if that makes sense.

    A yellow top battery is UNLIKELY to help.

    As far as what can happen ...

    Usually, you can't leave your headlights on and expect your alternator to charge the battery back up - if the battery is too far gone it won't charge back up, and you can damage the alternator trying that.

    In this specific case - let's say the audio system and car is drawing 110A and the alternator is putting out 90A.  The most likely scenario is that the battery gradually drains down as you are driving and the car won't start the next morning.

    People say the alternator actually powers the car and the battery is just for starting, but that isn't quite true - especially on newer cars.  You would notice things like your lights not being as bright, and possibly a stumble in the ignition or the car dying at a traffic stop.  If you kept going until the battery was really dead, you could also damage the alternator b/c you are putting a huge strain on it.

    BlackChevy's comment on minutes is a bit misleading as well - if you see Yel's comments in the last linked thread here.  The capacitor will discharge in a matter of seconds - then it starts trying to charge back up - then it discharges again, etc.  Probably if you had the system cranked for 15 minutes or so, the capacitor would be out of the system - then you start draining the battery, and that could take an hour or more, but ....  Every time you drain the battery it is less likely to respond (take a charge), and the alternator works harder when you start the car - so everything is in worse shape.

    Hope This Helps!!!

     

    2002 Ford Focus JVC KD-A815 Sony CDX-GT410u Sony XT-100HD HD Tuner Stock speakers, no amp, no subs

  • Yes that helps a lot. I'm curious as to why those edits where made in the first post since I was linking to the direct from manufacture shopping site.

  • The main reason is that I didn't realize Mitek was the parent company and owner of MTX, but even if I had, the links would have still been pulled b/c the factory outlet is a competitor to CF - at least on items that both carry.

    I'll ask if CF wants to clarify the policy in this thread.

    2002 Ford Focus JVC KD-A815 Sony CDX-GT410u Sony XT-100HD HD Tuner Stock speakers, no amp, no subs

  • TigerHeli

    The main reason is that I didn't realize Mitek was the parent company and owner of MTX, but even if I had, the links would have still been pulled b/c the factory outlet is a competitor to CF - at least on items that both carry.

    I'll ask if CF wants to clarify the policy in this thread.

    In cases like this I would be okay with linking to the sales site (Mitek) if it is a product that we do not carry. However, if it is a product that we do carry, please link to the Crutchfield or Manufacturers non-sales (MTX) website.

    I hope that helps, and please let me know if there are additional questions about this (or any) policy.