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And so glad I found this forum. A lot of very useful things here. Alrighty, here's my question.
This is the stereo I am hooking into it ---> http://i50.tinypic.com/200698k.jpg
I just bought a Amp, Here is a picture of it ---> http://i46.tinypic.com/1gjf42.jpg
Here is the specs of the amp:
4 CH 1800W Car Audio Amplifier, MP3 AMP. IPOD
Your head unit has subwoofer preouts and one other set of preamp outputs, but it doesn't say if these are front, rear, or non-fading - but we can work with that.
We will need much more info on the amp. I doubt it is 1800 W RMS - What we need is probably where it says "Output Power: see following". We also need to know if the amp can be bridged and how to do that.
Anyway - for an example, let's say the amp has these specs:
180Wx2@4-ohms RMS bridged.
Let's call the MPR6020 half of the amp Front and the 1800W half of the amp rear.
You can hook up two main 4-ohm speakers to the Front Left outputs in parallel and a second pair to the Front Right inputs and each speaker will see 45W RMS in the above example (you can't set any difference between the speakers so it is best if they are matching.
You can (probably) hook up an SVC-4-ohm or DVC-2-ohm sub to the bridged Rear outputs and it will see 180W RMS.
The Subwoofer RCA's from the HU will connect to the R and L inputs on the 1800W side of the amp, and the other set of HU RCA's will connect to the RCA's on the MPR6020 side of the amp.
You will also need to connect power, ground, and the remote input to the amp, but we need the amp RMS power rating to tell you what size wire and fuses to use.
You will NOT want to connect the head unit speaker wires to the 4 speakers, but you could connect additional speakers to them.
You also will not be able to fade between the front and rear speakers with this setup, but you will be able to adjust the balance control.
Once it is all hooked up, you will want to adjust the fader fully front or rear to whatever makes the main speakers loudest (or it may not matter), and then you will want to set the gain (level) on the amp for both the main and subwoofer channels.
Bass and Treble controls on an amp are highly unusual and not a sign of great quality, but I suspect this amp was selected for price over quality - NTTIAWWT
Hope This Helps!!!
2002 Ford Focus JVC KD-A815 Sony CDX-GT410u Sony XT-100HD HD Tuner Stock speakers, no amp, no subs
I won t know more till it gets here, But I will reply ASAP.
Getting all this hooked up for son's first pick up
And thank you for your time.
Thank you again and will reply as soon as the amp is delivered.
Do you already have the speakers and sub?
If not, I would hold off until you know the amp specs.
BTW, stock factory speakers normally will not handle an amp very well.
Yes, already bought
Rear - Alpine sps-600c 6.5" 480W 2-Way Component Speakers
Front -Alpine sps-400 4" 340w
I also have these speakers also, what ever one you think is best, all of them are new
Sony makes GTX woofer cones out of a proprietary material
that's lighter and stronger than polypropylene, for better energy
efficiency and power handling. These cones recover very quickly between
musical peaks, for increased clarity in the vocal range. Synthetic
rubber speaker surrounds resist stretching and maintain their
elasticity for long life under heavy usage.
The XS-GTX1640 6-1/2" 4-way speakers take care of the musical
details with balanced diaphragm midrange drivers and piezoelectric dome
tweeters. Sony blends these complementary elements together to produce
well-balanced sound, from the lowest notes on an electric bass to the
strum of an acoustic guitar. High-frequency response extends beyond the
normal limits of human hearing, producing the overtones that make the
instruments sound more natural.
You are quoting the wrong numbers - the RMS values are all you should be concerned with.
The front Alpine's are 45W RMS the rear Alpines are 80W RMS, the Sony's are 75W RMS.
The car is backwards in that you want the larger speakers in the front, not the rear, but you can't do a whole lot about that.
If the front speakers are in the dash, I would probably run them off the head unit (depending on how the fader works on the head unit) and only amp the rear speakers. If they are in the door, I would likely amp all four of them, but you will want to use bass blockers (probably 600 Hz) so you don't blow them.
I tend to like the sound of Sony 6.5's better than Alpine, but the Alpines will timbre-match the fronts better - but it's mainly up to your ears.
Components are also harder to install then co-axials and don't gain you much in the rear location.
With your setup, you will be limited in how much power you can send to the rears if you amp all four speakers (b/c the fronts only handle 45W, but there's not a lot you can do with 4" speakers).
Not much I can do on the size of the speakers as it is a pick-up and the 4" is what is mounted in the front and 6.5" is what mounts in the rear. I really do not want to modify those spots.
Understood - What year and model truck is it and where are the speakers located?
(It changes my opinion if they are 4" speakers in the dash and 6.5's in the front of the front doors or 4" speakers in the front doors and 6.5's behind the rear seat kick panels ...)
4" in front doors at bottom and 6.5 mounted in the wall in back of cab. King Cab Nissan.
That is about the worst configuration for sound quality - not that you can't work with it, I had 5.25's in the doors and 6x9's in the rear of a 1974 Olds Omega (Chevy Nova clone) - no sub and no front speakers originally. (And four 4"s and no subs in a Hyundai Excel ....)
Once it gets installed, you might want to play with amping all four speakers using bass blockers on the 4's or running the 4's off the head unit and only amping the rears and see what gives you the best sound.
I'm thinking having all four amped will work best, but it's hard to say ....
Anyone else have suggestions?
NOTE TO EASY: When you get the amp, if you have more questions, you can post them here and mark the earlier reply as "Not Answered" - this will put the thread back on CF's radar.
(I'll likely see it either way since it is in "My Discussions".)
Thank you and I sure will.
I'll know more when it gets here and I have the manual in front of me.
Thank you all so far with this issue.
Just wanted to post some more info on this thread.
I checked again, and the owner's manual for the head unit definitely does not say whether the main RCA's are front, rear, or non-fading. Depending on how you are hooking it up, that might or might not matter, but it is something I would want to know. The easiest test is after you have power ground and remote to the amp, hook RCA's to the 1800W L and R input side of the amp and the HU main RCA outputs and hook a speaker (any speaker and even just loose without mounting it) to the L or R output on the 1800W side of the amp. Turn the radio up until you can hear the speaker and then operate the fader control.
If the speaker gets louder when the fader is shifted to front, they are front RCAs', louder to rear, they are rear RCA's, no change, they are non-fading. There are two reasons it matters:
The next thing we need to know is what your son listens to and what his goals are for the system - there are several possible configurations and the advice will vary between them, for example:
Essentially, you have three primary ways you can hook the amp up:
Beyond those issues, there are further decisions with whether you run the 4-inch speakers off the amp or run them directly off the head unit, etc.
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