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Hey Guys. I’ve been reading all the reviews and forum info as I can as I’ve been building an system/order on CF (thanks for all of you who take the time to be as thorough as you can be when answering questions). I think ive got it all narrowed down to exactly what im looking for/ need. But still have a few questions on some things and was hoping to get them cleared up before I order. I have a Ford expedition and listen to manly rap but everything always plays when we go out. Ordering a pioneer AVIC z120bt and I planned on ordering one JL 12W6v2-D4. My questions are as follows:
1 . Best amp? It appears JL Audio XD600/1 or Infinity Reference 1600a might be my best choices for my price (under $400) or is there a better amp choice?
2. a few of the amps ive looked at have a remote level controller. How exactly do these work and can they be used only to control the “sub output” or sound (my girlfriend drives the truck every once and awhile and wont use the sub). Will / can she use this controller to “turn off” the sub output without damaging anything (if I set it up the right way)?
3. Ported or sealed? I think this sub will have the power Im looking for, but someone mentioned there W6 sounded horrible in a sealed box (think he moved it to his home stereo ported box) . Im looking for a good amount of SP but still want descent SQ for my combo. I don’t want to go ported and lose all my SQ. Any experience in a single 12” in both sealed and ported would be great.
Thanks in advance to any advice you guys can give.
just to be sure i planned on wiring like this
I can't answer all your questions but I can comment on the amps. I like the Infiniti amp you selected, good match for a good price. I don't see any reason to pay the extra money for the JL amp, unless you're dead set on keeping all the brands the same (which is perfectly fine if you do). Another amp you might consider is this MTX amp. It's discontinued at crutchfield, but if you can find one somewhere else or used, its a good match for your sub, and good bang for buck, sold for around $200 new. The Kicker 10zx750.1 also one maybe worth checking out, has a bit more power than your sub requires, but a little extra isn't a bad thing and people seem to really like Kicker amps. Unfortunately this ones also discontinued at CF, but should sell for around $300ish new.
Anyway, sweet sub, hopefully some other people here can weigh in on your other questions.
Hope it helped!
1998 Honda Prelude, Pioneer DEH-P9400BH + Sirius tuner, Kicker KS6.2 front components, Kicker KS6930 rear speakers, Alpine MRP-F300 for speakers, Alpine SWR-1022 in ported box, Rockford Fosgate Punch 501s for sub.
Lost my whole comment.. but knobs for amps really depend on the amp. Most knobs are only a bass boost which wont turn it off but rather just the boost down.. Some have level knobs.. it really depends on the amp. Another product that can be used is the PAC LC-1.. it goes inline with RCAs and is just a volume knob like what you want. If you want you can wait up a week and i should have mine and can and will give feedback about it. :) great product for about 20 bucks :) Another solution is a switch inline with your amps remote on to turn the sub amp on and off. :) that works good and costs are very little :)
Another thing is i second the kicker amp.. extra power is good if setup right and will avoid pushing the amp to its max and avoid clipping.Setup carefully with a DMM and your all good to go :)
Now for ported vs sealed.. if the ported box is made correctly to the specs of the sub.. you wont be able to tell if it sounds different! you will get more output and still amazing SQ. The box just has to be right for the sub and cant be any prefab box bought at Bestbuy.
JVC KD-AVX44, 2 Massive Audio Hippo 8's , Hifonics Colossus going back in soon, MB Quart ONX216, Fli audio FL450S-F2, Energy ENC693x2 in rear deck, 6 gauge kit plus a huge 3 gauge kit. Custom built box for my 8's :)
yeah, sounds like the inline RCA controller might be more what im looking for. If i went this route, there's no chance of damaging the sub / amp (asuming if your only altering the signal in it would be ok)?
So maybe i should be looking for a 700RMS amp? I really looking for longevity from this system, so If i do go with a higher watt amp as long as its set up correctly i wont have to worry about blowing anything no matter what signal (song) is sent?
when picking a box as long as it matches the "sealed box volume" (1.25 ^3 for the W6) i'll be ok?
Thanks for the help guys
Even if you have a more powerful amp u can still send a distorted clipped song and damage stuff.. or even too low of bass and things will damage. You must setup correctly and make sure your not clipping.
as for the box.. if it matches what the sub needs it will be good for a sealed..ported boxes get picky about tuning :)
and yea.. an inline RCA controller is the best thing for your case.... you wont damage anything that way as long as your sub and amp is setup correctly in the first place :) the knob i listed above only turns things down when you turn the knob down.. nothing more then that.. it basically the same as turning down the volume from the radio but only effects whatever its hooked up to.. so your sub :) not sure if it will turn it down all the way.. i guess even i will find out in under a week :)
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@Helenth01 - thank you for the kind thoughts and useful contribution to the thread.
Most of this has been covered but just to add a bit more to the confusion ...
G-rell1 . Best amp? It appears JL Audio XD600/1 or Infinity Reference 1600a might be my best choices for my price (under $400) or is there a better amp choice?
In this range - a key factor if you go with a ported box is a variable subsonic filter. The Infinity doesn't have one at all. The JL has a fixed one. So does the Kicker ZX750.1. The MTX JH600 is fan cooled and has a variable subsonic and was a great amp, but discontinued, as mentioned. The MTX RT500D would be it's replacement (I think), but it has a lower fuse rating and likely not as good a choice. The ZX750.1 is a good choice, but it can put out approaching 900W RMS. It's a good choice if you know what you are doing and set it up carefully.
G-rell2. a few of the amps ive looked at have a remote level controller. How exactly do these work and can they be used only to control the “sub output” or sound (my girlfriend drives the truck every once and awhile and wont use the sub). Will / can she use this controller to “turn off” the sub output without damaging anything (if I set it up the right way)?
Shak covered this very well, but from what I've seen, I'd say about 2/3rd's of the amps have a "level controller" and 1/3rd have a "Bass Boost controller". I'm not sure the marketers for the amp companies know the difference, so it can be hard to tell just from the name. If you want to quickly change the subwoofer level, it's handy - although you could do that from the HU menu's (maybe not as convenient but also harder for others to mess with when you finally get it dialed in just right. If your girlfriend doesn't want the sub on at all when see is driving - an on/off switch in the amp remote line is likely a better choice. She can turn the amp off and you can turn it back on without messing with any of your settings. If you want to add a remote control, Metra sells the AALC - similar to the PAC product and similarly priced - I don't have much of a preference either way - just giving you more options!
G-rell3. Ported or sealed? I think this sub will have the power Im looking for, but someone mentioned there W6 sounded horrible in a sealed box (think he moved it to his home stereo ported box) . Im looking for a good amount of SP but still want descent SQ for my combo. I don’t want to go ported and lose all my SQ. Any experience in a single 12” in both sealed and ported would be great.
His box was likely incorrectly sized or the sub was underpowered. The JL has an EBP of 52, which means it will work about equally in sealed or ported boxes but slightly favors sealed.
Just in general, sealed boxes tend to produce tighter bass, but need more power and are probably best for rock, country, jazz, or classical. Ported boxes (depending on tuning) tend to produce lower bass with less power and are probably best for rap or hip-hop.
Also - you really want the amp RMS slightly over the sub RMS. 600W RMS with a quality brand amp is about right for that sub. 750W is okay, but 500W would be fine also. You really don't want to hook a 1000W RMS amp up to it and try to limit the output to keep the sub safe.
Hope This Helps!!!
Anyone else have suggestions?
2002 Ford Focus JVC KD-A815 Sony CDX-GT410u Sony XT-100HD HD Tuner Stock speakers, no amp, no subs
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