1.800.555.8260 We're here to help
As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
I was thinking about getting a Hifonics amp for my two 12" alpine type R subs... there 4 ohms each so i need an amp thats 1 ohm stable... Can any one tell me about the quality of these amps??
Which one would be the best to get out of these three that i narrowed it down to...
<Mod Edit: Linked to Manufacturer's site. Please link to Crutchfield's Item Page or manufacturer's website. Thanks.>
Also... the type Rs are 500 watts each rms and two of the ones above amps are 1200 watts at 1 ohm so when splitted down the middle each sub will get 600 watts... would it be better to give them 600 watts each or go with the amp thats 1000 watts rms at 1 ohm and give each sub 500 watts which is perfect for each sub....
ive heard about hifonics amp.......... my cousin have one that 1000w @ 1ohm on 2 10 L 7 kicker in a corsica it got that car shaking like a junky trying to go cold turkey.......... either one would do..........crutchfield got a kenwood that 1ohm stable @ 900rms for about the same price
I was told by someone on this site they were great, and when I talked to a friend of mine who is big into stereo stuff he confirmed that HiFonics is what he would have gotten if he wasn't stubbourn and wanted to stick with all kicker. My 1000w Mono amp smoked on me, and I am going to be getting the HiFonics 1200w @ 1 ohm amp!
Wouldn't it be better to get a more powerful amp and have the gains turned down, then get the ecact amp and have everything up high? Or am I wrong? I do not know much, but thats why I was thinking about going with the slightly larger amp!
I cover this pretty much in BMoney's other thread.
Couple of Points - CF recommends you run at least 70% of RMS - which would be 700W RMS in this case. The amount of SPL gain from going above 70% RMS is minor - I think in the manuals for their subs, JL Audio estimates about a 2 dB increase. That said, the Type R's should handle 600W RMS each with no problem and if you keep the gains turned down, you can run the amp cooler and not have to worry about it sending distortion which is what kills subs.
Also, CF does not have a Kenwood amp that is RATED at 900W RMS at 1-ohm, CF has a Kenwood amp that is rated at 900W at 2-ohms, supposedly stable at 1-ohm, and supposedly limited to 900W at 1-ohm. I know this sounds like I'm really splitting hairs, but there was a forum thread of a 1200W Kenwood amp, also supposedly 1-ohm stable not able to drive 800W of load at 1-ohm, so I've been pretty skeptical of their numbers ever since.
2002 Ford Focus JVC KD-A815 Sony CDX-GT410u Sony XT-100HD HD Tuner Stock speakers, no amp, no subs
Again - we are getting into semantics a bit, but as Rush Limbaugh likes to say (I'm only a semi-DittoHead) - "Words Matter".
The Kenwood is limited by the manufacturer to 900W at 1-ohm - this is rather new with this year's amps (and not sure if Kenwood says that on their site or just on CF's site.) The amp I mentioned was a 1200W amp - Kenwood said it was 1-ohm stable, no power specified. CF said it was at least 1200W at 1-ohm.
The thing you have to realize is that "1-ohm stable" simply means the amp won't go into protect mode if it sees a 1-ohm load (long bass notes on a 2-ohm total load setup) - it doesn't necessarily mean it makes any power at 1-ohm. What you want to look for is what the Hifonics and similar amps say where they claim XXX Watts RMS at 1-ohm. (Or ideally XXX Watts RMS at 1.0 ohms from YYY to ZZZ Hz at CCC % THD).
Bottom line - basically for any amp ...
If it says XXX watts (1000W) with no RMS after the number - assume that is peak power and as good as meaningless, as Spruce put it, the ISL figure (If Struck By Lightning).
If it says X-ohm stable, no power specified (2-ohm stable), assume that it should only be run at something higher than what it lists (1-ohm stable, run it at 2-ohms, 2-ohm stable, run it at 4-ohms).
If it says XXX Watts RMS at Y-ohms - that is the figure you want to look for and that is a good configuration to run the amp at - you can generally go a bit higher on the impedance and it will work (if it quotes a 2-ohm rating, you can run it with a 3-ohm load).
I wouldn't go that far (best money can buy). There are amps like Sundown that will run at 0.5-ohms and I'm sure other brands that I'm not aware of. (They are also around $700 compared to $350 for the comparable Hifonics - so for the money I would say Hifonics is one of the best).
Hope This Helps!!!
I had a Hifonics Brutus 1000 watt Mono Amp hooked up to 2 12" Type R's in running @ 1ohm in my 1998 Acura Integra GS-R. I was using the stock speakers with a top end Alpine CD/MP3 head unit that had V-Drive 60 watts x 4. The head unit had almost everything in terms of audio tuning and adjusting. I built a really nice custom carpeted sealed box with 3/4" MDF. I used quality wires and did the installation myself.
The Type R's sounded amazing in my setup. They could thump hard as hell and were very clear for car woofers. The stocks hooked up to the alpine head with V-Drive was more than enough. With the tuning options of the head unit as well as adjusting the gains on the amp, you could create an almost perfect sound. The head unit has built in crossovers, so you could adjust the frequencies to for the mids and highs as well as the subs. The system could get EXTREMELY LOUD and still maintain its clarity. With the gains turned up, and the volume only about half way up it could get too loud for human ears. WIth the volume turned up on a song with a lot of bass, I could literally almost blow the glass of the hatch off my car.
The Hifonics Brutus performed amazingly. The I had the system in my car for 3 years with never 1 problem. I drove a lot back then and the system was under very heavy use. The amp was extremely well made. It was built out of a block of milled aluminum just like the MacBook Pro's are built today. The amp was wired to deliver 500 watts a piece to the Type R's. The Type R's simply blasted with this amp. The bass was very quality sounding and hit hard as hell. You could easily set off alarms or rattle somebody's windows 3 cars back with the bass from this setup. A 1000 watt Hifonics Amp with 2 12" Type R's is almost the perfect setup. You will not be dissapointed. Hifonics is excellent, high quality stuff for the money. For the Type R's, there is hardly a better amp. After hearing many other amps with Type R's, I wouldn't even consider anything else but Hifonics. You can't go wrong.
If choosing between a Hifonics amp, I'd go with the Zeus ZXI 1010. It would be perfect match at 500w RMS x 2.
But if you're set on getting a mono amp, I'd go with a TMA T1000.1 over the Hifonics Brutus. They are around the same price but TMA is a subsidiary of JL Audio (very trusted brand) and my friend has had a TMA and raves about it.
Because my name is on the business, I work hard to make sure you get the best possible shopping experience. I look forward to hearing your comments .
- Bill Crutchfield Founder and CEO
Browse our latest Discovery Book catalog online
Send me a FREE Discovery Book catalog by mail
Email me exclusive offers, deals and expert reviews
Copyright ©1996-2014, Crutchfield New Media, LLC All rights reserved. Crutchfield is a trademark of Crutchfield New Media, LLC.