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Im currently running 3 crv 12's and an xplod 1200w amp. When i have the subs wired correctly obviously my amp cannot handle it and after a few seconds it turns itself onto protect. I would like to have my amp be a kicker, but i have done some research and the only kicker amp that is 1 ohm stable is the DX1400, but i cannot find any prices on the amp or location to buy one. Also, im really only looking for a 1000w amp. So, if anyone has any suggestions on a different make/model please help me out here. Another question that is off this subject, im getttin ready to build a custom enclosure in the trunk, and i cannot find the correct or recommended amount of airspace that each sub requires. I know the formulas and I have built boxes in the past, just needing the factory recommended airspace.(Or someone with experience with these subs recommendations)
First choice - Sundown SAE-1000D
Second choice - I'd run the Hifonics BXI-1208D to them, but if you really only want 1000W, go with the TXI-1008D
Third choice - Crunch P1000.1
But while we are here - what amp do you have and is it 1200W RMS mono? And are they DVC-2-ohm or DVC-4-ohm subs?
I'm assuming you have your subs wired like this:
You do realize you could just re-wire them like this:
Your amp would only put out 900W (or 300W per sub), but it sounds like that's all you're after and it should be stable (unless it's a bridged 2-channel amp and then you are probably back to square 1.
However, if you wanted a Kicker, a ZX1000.1 would be about perfect with the above, and a ZX750.1 wouldn't be too terrible.
2002 Ford Focus JVC KD-A815 Sony CDX-GT410u Sony XT-100HD HD Tuner Stock speakers, no amp, no subs
Impedances double -
Give me more info on the amp - is it mono? 2-channel bridged? Model No?
It is a bridgeable 2ch, also i have the subs wired at 2.67 ohms, like the second diagram you sent. My friend/installer says that my system is not at full potential because of the way they are wired. If i was to have a 1 ohm stable amp I would notice the difference in sound??
Somewhere, there is a logical disconnect here - your subs are wired at 2.67 ohms. You amp is 4-ohm stable bridged, not 2-ohm stable, and apparently not 2.67-ohm stable. You need a 2-ohm stable amp that you can run at 2.67-ohms. You said you wanted a 1000W amp, but that would be 333W per sub, which is fine, but they handle 1200W RMS total, so what you really are wanting is an amp that would be 1200-1500W at 2-ohms.
1-ohm stability is a nice feature (mainly if you wanted to drop down to two DVC-4-ohm subs that were higher power handling), but not at all a requirement.
The Kicker ZX750.1 ($300) or the Alpine MRP-M1000 would be great choices - (Figure about 25% above rated power for Kicker so about 930 with that amp). The ZX1000.1 would be even better, but I'm not sure you would notice it. The ZX1500.1 would normally be good, but it's likely a bit much the way Kicker rates them.
If you really want a 1-ohm stable amp, that's fine, but you need it to put out 1200W at 2-ohms, so you will be looking at roughly 1600W@1-ohm amps and you will likely pay a lot more for that with no real benefit (they are more robust amps, but you are not even straining a 2-ohm mono amp). Good choices would be:
Sundown - Great amps, nothing that really fits. The SAZ-1500D is only 800W@2-ohms, the SAZ-3000D is 1600W at 2-ohms. Probably the SAZ-3000D would be your best choice, but it lists for $1100 - street price probably a $200 less, but I haven't checked.
Hifonics - BXI-1608D or BXI-2008D - either one would be very good matches at 1100 and 1300W at 2-ohms. Street Price $260-$340.
Crunch - GP2500D or GP3000D-Pro would be good - Street Price $220-$450.
I am not running my amp bridged though, and how is it that my amp is 4 ohm stable when my subs are wired at 2.67. If i wired them differently where they are at 1.3 ohms (i dont have the exact number here sorry), would this give me what im more bass. Also you mentioned dropping down to 2 subs and wiring them differently... I would rather add one more as opposed to losing one, im looking for the most noise i can make with what i have, but i want everything to be efficient the same. Thanks for the help.
Ummm, you are misunderstanding a lot of basic audio here - but I'll try to sort it out for you ...
ScottyMill:I am not running my amp bridged though
I'm not sure how you are running 3 subs on that amp if it is not bridged, unless they are one one channel of the amp and the other channel is empty, in which case you are splitting 500W or so between the subs.
and how is it that my amp is 4 ohm stable when my subs are wired at 2.67.
Your amp will not overheat if it is bridged and you connect more that a 4-ohm load to it. If you connect a 2.67-ohm load, it will try to run at 2.67, but it is not stable and will overheat.
If i wired them differently where they are at 1.3 ohms (i dont have the exact number here sorry), would this give me what im more bass.
If you have DVC-4-ohm subs, you can't wire them at 1.3-ohms at all. If you had DVC-2-ohm subs, you could wire them at 1.3 ohms, but if your amp is not stable at 2.67-ohms it almost certainly will not be stable at 1.3.
Also you mentioned dropping down to 2 subs and wiring them differently... I would rather add one more as opposed to losing one, im looking for the most noise i can make with what i have, but i want everything to be efficient the same. Thanks for the help.
Actually, if they are DVC-4-ohm subs, you could add a 4th one and wire them at 2-ohms final, but now your wattage splits 4 ways (so you ideally need 1600W at 2-ohms.
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