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Hello everybody. I am new to this forum and need some advice with the speakers in a 2002 Tahoe that I just purchased. The friend that I just bought this tahoe from informed me that the rear speakers didn't sound like they were working. He replaced them when he bought the car in 2008. He had installed a set of Phoenix RSD6 speakers in the rear doors. Currently, I don't hear anything from them now and can not believe that they would quit working in less that 3 years. Before I replace them, does anyone have any suggestions on what I might need to check ----- ie ampliefier, wiring, etc. I am a true novice when it comes to audio and wiring knowledge. So any advice would be appreciated??
Thanks in advance!
If the speakers play intermittently, I'm going to go out on a limb and say the speakers themselves are probably okay.
That leaves about three possibilities:
Personally, my recommendation would be to replace the HU with aftermarket and if necessary, bypass the OEM amp and run new speaker wire to the speakers, but ...
Hope This Helps!!!
Anyone else have suggestions?
2002 Ford Focus JVC KD-A815 Sony CDX-GT410u Sony XT-100HD HD Tuner Stock speakers, no amp, no subs
Be sure that when your rear speakers are not working that the rear audio controls are turned off. The rear audio controls disable the rear speakers and route the sound through the headphone jacks. (When the rear speakers are not working try putting headphones in the jack to see if you have sound). This also partially explains why the bass adjustment has no effect. The 2002 Tahoe (Non-Bose) has a factory "amp" behind the glove box. This "amp" eliminates all the bass from the door speakers (front and rear) and routes it to the sub in the back. When the rear audio controls are turned on, it also kills the power to the sub in the back eliminating virtually all of your bass.
If there seems to be no bass even when the rear speakers are working then the factory sub is probably blown - very common. It was a very cheap sub and commonly dry rots causing no bass. It is a 2 ohm 8" sub which requires a shallow mount replacement. KIicker makes one that fits well (Kicker CVT82)
I would highly recommend doing an amp bypass - google "Factory high pass crossover bypass - 2002 tahoe" This mod will require minimal skill and will provide a great deal more/better full sound to your door speakers. I also recommend disconnecting the factory tweeters in the front doors as they tend to blow with even modest volume, again cheap parts. If you replace the front speakers with decent replacements, you wont miss the low quality tweeters, especially if you are just looking for normal sound, not super high volume/performance.
This can get difficult to explain.
If you just want to verify the rear speakers are working - the easiest method is probably to either connect them in place of the front speakers, or connect them to another car stereo head unit (deck, receiver).
Assuming the speakers play then, the next step is figuring out why they don't play in the rear.
That can get complicated, so before we get to that:
Does the Tahoe have an aftermarket or the original Chevy HU?
If aftermarket, it might still be using the OEM Chevy amplifier ...
If Chevy HU - does it have a BOSE logo on the front speaker grilles?
Both the BOSE and non-BOSE systems use an OEM amplifier - but we'll get more into that later.
Thanks for your reply ---- the information has been helpful. Even when the rear controls are turned off, I am still unable to hear anything from the rear door speakers ---- so I assume that the next step would be to bypass the amp behind the glove box via "factory high pass crossover bypass"???
Would you think that the HU could have a bad channel or anything that would not allow it to send a signal to the rear door speakers. The 3 speakers in the cargo area work fine ---- I am just having trouble with the rear door speakers. Again, I appreciate any help/advice.
I would assume the cargo area speakers are on the same HU channel as the rear door speakers, so a HU channel failure seems unlikely to me.
If it is likely that the rear channel on the HU is working properly seeing that a signal and sound is coming from the HU to the cargo speakers, then would it seem likely that performing a Factory high pass crossover bypass would send a signal to the rear door speakers. Or does this mod simply send more bass to the rear speakers? Would it be more likely that I am having a wiring problem with regards to a signal not being received in the rear speakers? Again remember that I don't have any bass adjustment. I am just trying to use the process of elimination before getting too deep in this repair?
Thanks for your help in advance!
We're somewhat grasping at straws here at this point.
Were you able to see if you have sound out of the headphones jack if you plug in headphones.
Given that the speakers work occasionally, I'm thinking it is either:
I agree with the earlier suggestion that your best course at this point is to bypass the glovebox amp and probably run new speaker wire from the head unit to the rear door speakers.
I was able to hear thru the headphones when plugged into to rear console ---- i guess that i will look at some wiring tonight ---- i might have questions tomorrow
If you have sound through the headphones then you have sound coming from the HU to the rear audio controls. That is most likely where your problem lies. You may need to replace that module.
I know this is an old topic, but maybe this will help others searching. I also had the rear right speaker not working at all in my 2002 Tahoe. The left one one working oddly enough. I replaced my head unit and all door speakers (they were all blown) and still no audio out of the right rear. I then build and installed the "factory high pass crossover bypass" adapter and now audio works great out of all speakers.
I have posted an article on my blog with instructions, parts list, and detailed photos on how to build this "factory high pass crossover bypass" adapter and install it in the Tahoe. The link is listed below:
In addition to getting the speaker working again, this bypass adapter also helps the audio quality because the factory amplifier has a built-in crossover that filters out much of the low frequency audio (bass) for all the door speakers. Now with this bypass adapter installed I get the full range audio signal to all door speakers. This version of the bypass adapter does continue to send audio to the factory amplifier to power the factory subwoofer and the rear cargo area pillar tweeters.
Note: I also replaced the factory subwoofer, as it was blown too, with a Kicker 10CVT8-2 Shallow 8" 2-ohm Subwoofer. This now sounds far better than the factory sub ever did. A little modification is needed to fit the sub into the factory sub enclosure, but not too difficult. I am just using this new sub with the factory amplifier so I'm sure it would sound even better with a new amplifier, but its good enough for me as is.
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