2001 Tahoe Speaker Replacement

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2001 Tahoe Speaker Replacement

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Looking to replace all speakers in my 2001 Chevy Tahoe as they have all dry-rotted.  This is a non-Bose system w/ factory subwoofer.  I started a physical survey of what is in there this weekend and found a mix of impedance ratings.  The sub is rated 2 ohms, rear doors had just one speaker rated 8 ohms.  Front speakers are 2-piece set; larger of the two rated 4 ohms.  Didn't look at the smaller front speaker for impedance rating.

All I'm looking to do is a straight speaker replacement...no amp upgrades, etc.

My question is...do I need to go back in with speaker of same impedance rating?  What about 2-way vs. 3-way for the fronts and rears?

Would like to get some input.  The speaker swaps are easy, it's picking the right hardware that has me hung up.


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  • You have component speakers up front (midrange in doors and tweeters in dash or upper doors), and regular full range speakers in rear doors. Probably not a practical replacement for the sub. Your best bet there would be to disconnect the factory sub and use the signal or speaker wire for a new amp/sub/enclosure.

    Don't get caught up with impedance or 2 way or 3 way.

    You will get free installation instructions and wiring adaptors with your speaker order from Crutchfield.

    fronts - http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/CompareTo.aspx?compareItems=01|130TSA1604&compareItems=01|500SPS610C&compareItems=01|1086030CS&g=410

    rears - http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/CompareTo.aspx?compareItems=01|1086032SI&compareItems=01|130TSD1702&g=400

    I don't believe you would go wrong with the Infinities or the Pioneers all around.




    GLH Geeked

  • GLH
    Probably not a practical replacement for the sub.

    That is basically true. There is enough space for a few of our 8" subwoofers, but we do not have information about the box volume of the location. If you want to try one, then you will need one with a magnetic diameter of 5" or less and a mounting depth of no more than 4.8".


  • Hi - So for this particular vehicle, which already I guess has component speakers in the front doors, is it better to go with component speakers without the separate/included Crossovers? I noticed that the setups you recommend above do not have them, but many of the sets sold on the website do. 

    Does the factory wiring have some kind of crossover built in? Is it just as easy to install some of your component speaker sets that DO come with one of the physical crossovers?


    Thanks, this is a super helpful post especially with the links directly to your store and products that would work!!!!

  • Does yours have Bose or non-Bose system ?

    GLH Geeked

  • Mine is the Non-Bose, but WITH the sub-woofer.... The exact wording is "9 speaker system w/subwoofer"




  • Are you planning on installing new component speakers to be powered by the stock head or an aftermarket head ?

    GLH Geeked

  • So that's part of the question actually, I'm glad you brought it up. I'm replacing the headunit and saw that you guys (Crutchfield) includes an adaptor for the factory harness. I was trying to decide whether to put the new component speakers in the front doors (the only speakers I'm replacing) on the factory wiring from the amp behind the glovebox or try and run new wiring.....


    Thanks GLH!!!!!

  • Most of us on the forum do not work for Crutchfield. We are just here as a hobby. Your mileage may vary.

    Depends on the component speakers you choose, actually. I would only bypass the stock amp if replacing 4 speakers sets and installing a sub and sub-amp. If you are only replacing the front set of speakers, I would be sure and call Crutchfield to get the proper wiring interface so that your bells-chimes-whistles-sub all still work.

    You best bet as far as audio quality goes, would be to install a new head, 4 new speaker sets, 4 channel amp, new sub/amp/enclosure.

    If you are powering the new front component set off the head and stock amp (as it is now), I recommend these -


    Might be some detail work to get the tweeters to look/fit good in the stock locations.

    Boston's and Focal's would be my unlimited budget pick.


    GLH Geeked

  • maxwisc
    9 speaker system w/subwoofer


    GLH Geeked

  • maxwisc
    I'm replacing the headunit and saw that you guys (Crutchfield) includes an adaptor for the factory harness. I was trying to decide whether to put the new component speakers in the front doors (the only speakers I'm replacing) on the factory wiring from the amp behind the glovebox or try and run new wiring.....

    The thread has a bit of age on it, but ...

    Your EASIEST replacement is to install non-component speakers AFTER the Chevy amp and disconnect the factory tweeters.

    Next EASIEST would be installing component speakers after the Chevy amp, but keep in mind that the new head unit (HU) probably has a more powerful internal amp then the Chevy amp, so while you will get the added features of the new head unit, you will miss out on some sound quality.

    I usually recommend bypassing the Chevy amp unless you are keeping the stock speakers (and maybe even then, if you are up to doing so).

    Finally, if you might be adding an aftermarket amp along with the new head unit, you want to choose speakers that can handle the amp's power output.

    Hope This Helps!!!

    Anyone else have suggestions?

    2002 Ford Focus JVC KD-A815 Sony CDX-GT410u Sony XT-100HD HD Tuner Stock speakers, no amp, no subs