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Tips on running new speaker wire to door

Car Audio, Video, & GPS

Car Audio, Video, & GPS
Talk about stereos, navigation, amps, subs, and all things car audio

Tips on running new speaker wire to door

  • I recently bought a 2001 Jeep Cherokee (and after browsing through these forums, I'm now a little paranoid by all the issues they seem to have with audio). Anyway, when I bought it, only three of the speakers were working (the rear pair and the front passenger side).  The factory speakers that were installed were crap and I was going to get an after-market HU to replace the factory HU, so I picked up 4 speakers and a new HU. Installed the HU and the speakers and the front driver's side still doesn't work, which leads me to believe the wire is crap.  It's not an infinity system, so there's nothing in between.

    So, in light of all that, does anyone have any tips for getting new speaker wire run, and run through the the same conduit that the current wire is run?  This is the first time I've installed a system on my own, and this is about the end of my expertise level.

    AGNP

  • AaronGNP:
    So, in light of all that, does anyone have any tips for getting new speaker wire run, and run through the the same conduit that the current wire is run? This is the first time I've installed a system on my own, and this is about the end of my expertise level.


    Sure - first off, if you aren't running an amp, you don't need fancy speaker wire, IMHO. Don't try to get 14-gauge Streetwires, you don't need it and it will be a pain to route.

    Do you have a voltmeter? It is handy to verify you have continuity (zero-ohms) to be sure you are tracing the correct wire, but you can make it work without it.

    Standard 16 or 18-gauge Radio Shack stranded speaker wire will do just fine, or even lamp cord. I do recommend getting the wire that is two conductors joined together, with one striped, so you only need to do run the wire itself once.

    Next step is to figure out as best you can how the current wire is run so you can follow it. You'll be snipping both ends so leaving the old dead wire in the car won't hurt anything. If the wire is wrapped to other wires with electrical tape, you are best leaving it and trying to figure out where it goes. (Too much chance of cutting good wires when you cut the tape loose, and a pain to tape back up when you are done.) If it runs through plastic conduit with either tape or zip-ties holding the conduit together, this can be cut open, the new wire inserted, and the conduit closed back up.

    BTW, you want to remove both the dash panels as required to see where the wire is going, and the door panel before this next step.

    For the most part, you can just run the wire anywhere you want (try to avoid high power wires), without following the factory wiring. The only place it gets tricky is the transition from inside the car to the door. Normally the wire runs through a flexible rubber grommet here and it is a good idea to follow this.

    Two methods:

    1) If the wire runs loose (not taped to other wires) through the conduit - you can cut the old wire and tie or tape the new wire to the end of the old one and pull the old wire out and the new wire will (hopefully) follow it in.

    2) It the wire is taped to the other wire (or if the knot or tape comes loose in method one), you can usually take a flat blade screwdriver and carefully push down and remove the grommet. With the grommet removed, you should be able to manually pull the new wire through the door jamb sheet metal, through the grommet, and into the door. If the wire doesn't want to go through the grommet, you can gently use an unbent metal coathanger to fish through the grommet and then tie the wire on and pull it through. Once the wire is into the door, pop the grommet back into place.

    To connect to the speaker, CF sells replacement slide lugs, but I've never seen the small ones anywhere else. You can either butt-splice the new wire to the harness wires that you are using now, or use larger slide lugs and just tighten them down with pliers if they are too loose.

    Post back if you didn't follow that, but it likely took longer to type than it will for you to run the wire!


    [edited by: Daniel at 1:05 PM (GMT -5) on Mon, Sep 10 2007] Link [edited by: Jeff Kitchen at 12:14 PM (GMT -5) on Mon, Sep 10 2007]

    2002 Ford Focus JVC KD-A815 Sony CDX-GT410u Sony XT-100HD HD Tuner Stock speakers, no amp, no subs

  • i had this same exact problem in my jeep, i also have a 2001 cherokee and the same speaker wasnt working, all i did was run new wire from the hu and down through the door and it worked fine, good luck with your set up!
  • Hello-

    Any advice on running wire to the back speakers?  I have a 2008 two door, regular cab Ford Ranger and just replaced my factory speakers (in the door) with Pioneer TS-A6882R's.  I want to put the old factory speakers (until I can buy something better) in the back speaker mounts, since the dang truck did not come with back speakers (thanks Ford!) but when I removed the grill I found that there does not even appear to be cabling routed for the rear speakers.

     My guess is that this will be quite a pain...

     This is my first post here, so sorry if I am derailing this thread.  I will gladly start a new one if you all would prefer.

    Thanks,

    paint

  • Basically, it's just pulling the trim panels and running the wire behind them to the new speakers, but I don't have specifics on your truck.

    Anyone? 

    2002 Ford Focus JVC KD-A815 Sony CDX-GT410u Sony XT-100HD HD Tuner Stock speakers, no amp, no subs

  • You are correct.  There is no cabling ran to the rear speakers on the Rangers.  Mine is the same way. 

     

    Doug