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Sony Xplod Amp (XM-2150GSX) - Over Current Light On

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Sony Xplod Amp (XM-2150GSX) - Over Current Light On

  • I have a Sony Xplod Amp (XM-2150GSX) hooked up to 2 12" Kenwood subs (KFC-W3005) in a bandpass box. I got the whole setup for $100 off a friend who barely used both (granted they are both old pieces of equipment).  When it works it sounds good enough for me.  However, now, I can't get the over current light on the amp to turn off.  I barely turn the volume up on my headunit (HU) and the light comes on. 

    Can anyone shed some light on this for me?  Should I bring the amp back to this kid and get my money back and buy a different one?  The subs and box (a really nice box) I don't think are the problem.  Thanks in advance.

     

    Freddy

  • I'm using 10 gauge wires if that helps at all as well.  Should I use 8 gauge?  Any input would be appreciated.  Thanks in advance.

     

    Here are some other amps I'm considering as a replacement.  Let me know what you think:

     

    http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/ProdComp.asp?g=120&s=0&c=3&cc=01&compareItems=489AP1000&compareItems=489AP1200&compareItems=489HA1000&compareItems=113KAC7204&compareItems=613KACX20 



    [edited by: Freddy at 10:55 AM (GMT -5) on Tue, Feb 17 2009]
  • Your subs are SVC-4-ohm 175W RMS 350 continuous, 700 Peak each.

     Your amp is 150Wx2@4-ohms.

    According the owner's manual, over-current indicates crossed or shorted speaker wiring (or a blown sub).  Check that first.

    If you have the subs wired in parallel and connected to the amp in bridged mode - it is not 2-ohm stable bridged, so that could be the problem.

    If you have one sub on each channel, they should get 85% of RMS.  CF recommends at least 70%, so you are in good shape.

    The amp wants 8-gauge wire, but I don't think that's the problem.  You shouldn't use more than a 30-Amp fuse with the 10-gauge wiring, but I don't think you are pulling too much current through the wire (if you were, you would be blowing fuses, not turning lights on).

    Make sure the gain (shown as LEVEL here) is set properly, and if it is, try turning it slightly to min and see if that makes the problem go away.

    Try connecting only one sub at a time and see if they both work separately.

    If you still want to replace the amp, your choices are good, but you ideally want a mono amp around 350-500W RMS @ 2-ohms.  These would be good.

    Hope This Helps!!!

    2002 Ford Focus JVC KD-A815 Sony CDX-GT410u Sony XT-100HD HD Tuner Stock speakers, no amp, no subs

  • TigerHeli to the rescue.  Thanks for the input.  I have one sub hooked up to each channel, I will check on the speaker wire and also the gain level to see if that helps.

    So if I understand clearly,  you are saying I should get a mono amp around 350-500w RMS then bridge it to the subs? Does that work better as opposed to a 2-channel amp?

     

    Thanks TH.

  • Freddy:
    I have one sub hooked up to each channel, I will check on the speaker wire and also the gain level to see if that helps.

    The amp and the subs actually match up quite well, if they are all working properly.

    you are saying I should get a mono amp around 350-500w RMS then bridge it to the subs? Does that work better as opposed to a 2-channel amp?

    Techically, bridged refers to running a 2-channel amp as a mono amp.  If the amp is already mono, you can't bridge it, you just connect the subs in parallel to the amp, but right idea.

    The mono amp works better than the 2-channel for two reasons:

    • Subwoofer bass is omni-directional - you can't tell what direction it comes from.  So you want the left and the right sub to hit at the same time.  A mono amp does that for you.
    • If it is a Class D subwoofer amp, it will run cooler and draw less current.  That is less of a big deal with a sub 500W amp, and not all mono sub amps are Class D, some are still Class AB.
    Hope This Helps!!!

    2002 Ford Focus JVC KD-A815 Sony CDX-GT410u Sony XT-100HD HD Tuner Stock speakers, no amp, no subs

  • "If you have the subs wired in parallel and connected to the amp in bridged mode - it is not 2-ohm stable bridged, so that could be the problem."

    Hey TH.  They actually are hooked up this way, and not to each channel.  I made a mistake and checked it out (my buddy hooked it up for me, I'm still a rookie).  Could you clarify what the 2-ohm stable bridged part of your quote means when you have a chance?  Thanks in advance.

  • It's a bit hard to explain.

    Look at Page 2 of the owner's manual - the top picture is what you want.  (+) and (-) of one sub on the left channel and the other one on the right chanel.

    Look at the bottom picture - (+) of one sub to the L+ terminal and (-) of the same sub to the R- Terminal.  (for this amp, not all amps).  That bridges the sub and it supplies 380Wx1@4-ohms to the sub.

    Now, if you connect the (+) terminals of BOTH subs to the L+ channel and the (-) terminals of BOTH subs to the R- terminal (or if you go like the bottom picture to one sub and then (+) on the first sub to (+) on the second one and (-) on the first to (-) on the second, you have the amp bridged to both subs, but 2-ohms at the amp and it won't work well.

    That was tough to explain - post back if you didn't follow it ...

    2002 Ford Focus JVC KD-A815 Sony CDX-GT410u Sony XT-100HD HD Tuner Stock speakers, no amp, no subs

  • I follow you up until that last part of the paragraph where it says "(or if you go like the bottom picture to one sub and then (+) on the first sub to (+) on the second one and (-) on the first to (-) on the second" TH. Thanks for the clarification though. My buddy and I are gonna  mess around with it tonight.  He thinks it has something to do with the ground wire.  I believe it's exactly what you are talking about with the speaker wires.


    [edited by: Freddy at 2:59 PM (GMT -5) on Tue, Feb 17 2009] [edited by: Freddy at 2:50 PM (GMT -5) on Tue, Feb 17 2009]
  • This is how you want it wired:

    http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/ca/learningcenter/car/subwoofer_wiring/2SVC_4-ohm_2ch.jpg

    This is bridged to one sub (too powerful for your single sub, just disconnect one of them in the pic above to test), just showing you what bridged looks like:

    http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/ca/learningcenter/car/subwoofer_wiring/1SVC_4-ohm_2ch.jpg
    This is bridged to the amp (ignore it says mono amp), there are other ways of wiring this also:

    http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/ca/learningcenter/car/subwoofer_wiring/2SVC_4-ohm_mono.jpg
    Other wiring method (pretend the green wires and terminals are not there):


     2DVC_2-ohm_mono_th.jpg picture by t_pilot

    The second one could be bad for the sub, the last two could be bad for the amp.

    Hope This Helps!!!

    2002 Ford Focus JVC KD-A815 Sony CDX-GT410u Sony XT-100HD HD Tuner Stock speakers, no amp, no subs

  • Thanks again TH.  I'm much better with picture diagrams than with words, although I understood most of what you were saying.  You're the man TH.  You've been very helpful.
  • Hey TH.  I saw you had one of these as a recommended amp:

    http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500MRPM500/Alpine-MRP-M500.html?tp=115&tab=review

    My buddies gf has one of these that she wants to sell for $60.  Would you recommend that amp over the Sony Xplod I have now (XM-2150GSX)?  Also, could you clarify how the speaker wiring would work for this mono amp?  The subs are already in the box.  Would I have to take it apart to mess around with the wiring?

  • Bit of a tough call there ...

    Your subs are 350W (combined RMS), and 700W continuous - they'll take 700 (or Kenwood says they will), but that might be generous.

    The Sony amp is 300W and the Alpine is 500W.

    The Alpine is newer.

    The Alpine is a class D, but they both consume about the same power.

    For the subs you have now - I don't think you'll see a great improvement with the Alpine over the Sony amp - the Sony is very well-matched - IF it is working.

    If you plan on upgrading to maybe 250-300W RMS each subs, the Alpine would be a better choice.

    If it were me, I would probably see what you can find out on the Sony, and let him know you might be very interested in the amp in a few days if you can't get it working.

    The wiring is the same as the third figure that I said you shouldn't use (with the Sony amp) above (or the fourth figure):

    http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/ca/learningcenter/car/subwoofer_wiring/2SVC_4-ohm_mono.jpg
    You probably want to take apart the box wiring anyway to make sure that isn't where your problems are, but otherwise, no, you don't have to.  There should be two terminal cups on the box, one speaker to each terminal cub.  From there, with the Sony, you run a wire to each amp channel.  With the Alpine, you either connect both those wire to the mono amp terminals, or run a wire from terminal cup one to the amp and terminal cup two to terminal cup one.

    (Think of the terminals on the terminal cups the same way as the terminals on the subs themselves - electrically they are the same).

    (If you only have one terminal cup on the box, you probably found your problem with the Sony amp, and the Alpine would work without re-wiring, but you should verify that, and you might want to add a second terminal cup and be able to use the Sony.)

    Hope This Helps!!!

    2002 Ford Focus JVC KD-A815 Sony CDX-GT410u Sony XT-100HD HD Tuner Stock speakers, no amp, no subs