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i have 2 12" 8ohm kenwood subs and a kenwood 7205 1000W bridgeable amp specs are below:
my question is how do i wire them to get the best bass possible? my headunit is a jvc kw xr610
If you are SURE they are 8-ohm subs (I think they came in 4-ohm and 8-ohm versions), you would just wire them in parallel and bridge the amp:
The amp is 500W and the subs are 400W, which is about perfect if you set the gain on the amp carefully.
Hope This Helps!!!
Anyone else have suggestions?
2002 Ford Focus JVC KD-A815 Sony CDX-GT410u Sony XT-100HD HD Tuner Stock speakers, no amp, no subs
thank you so much for your reply.
how do i set the gain properly as you said? i am very new to this.
my head unit is a jvc kw xr610, i looked at the spec on it and it says the pre amp output is 2.5V i think? i am not sure though.
We really need to set up a Wiki page on gain setting.
Setting by ear here. If you have a multimeter, you can use this method.
Amp output is AC Voltage, so you want the VAC scale, and for 500W, you want 44.72 VAC, or for 400W, you want 40 VAC.
HU output voltage doesn't really matter except to give you a ballpark on where the dial should end up.
PERFECT. i will try this and repost with results. thank you so much!
ok i hooked everything up. but the question is now, i did not bridge the amp because my question is i have a 8 gauge wiring kit that was already in my car and the 8 gauge kit only handles up to 400W so if i bridge the amp and it pulls 500W then i am over by 100W or am i wrong?
i know i need to upgrade my wiring kit to 4 gauge but i have been told by many car sterio professionals that 8 gauge would be fine for what i have.
so the real question is should i bridge the amp since i have a 8 gauge wiring kit and not a 4 gauge kit?
i have 2 12" 8ohm kenwood subs and a kenwood 7205 1000W bridgeable amp specs are below: i also have a 8 gauge kit that was already installed in my car and my head unit is a jvc kw xr610
2-channel car amplifier
· 170 watts RMS x 2 at 4 ohms (250 watts x 2 at 2 ohms)
· 500 watts RMS x 1 bridged output at 4 ohms (4 ohm stable in bridged mode)
· CEA-2006 compliant
· variable low-pass filter (50-200 Hz at 24 dB per octave)
· variable bass boost (0-18 dB at 40 Hz)
· dual cooling fans
· MOSFET power supply
· speaker-level inputs with signal sensing turn-on
· preamp inputs
· fuse rating: 30A x 2
· · KFC-W112S 12" 8-ohm subwoofers
· injection-molded polypropylene woofer cone with high-roll urethane surround
· black stamped-steel basket
· power range (per sub): 50-200 watts RMS (800 watts peak power)
· frequency response: 28-800 Hz
· sensitivity: 90 dB
Those ratings for the wiring are irrelevant. The wire supports up to so much amperage. The 8GA wire you have should have either a 50AMP or 60AMP inline fuse, if not, then it's not true 8 GA. If it has higher, replace it immediately with no larger than a 60AMP fuse.
Now your subs should be ran to the HU wired in parallel to drop the load to 4 ohms and then wired to the amp in bridged mode. Like so.
Set the gain to limit the output of the amp to 400RMS using a DMM and following this method. You'd set the output to read 40VAC.
thank you. here is the 8 gauge kit i have KICKER 09DCK8, is it ok to use? or do i need to replace it? if i do not need to replace it right now then will bridging the amp be ok with this kit?
this is what was installed in my car before i bought it. so the 8 gauge amp kit that is with this system (Kicker TC10DXPAC) is what is in the car. i believe it is fine. what do you think?
i dont have access to a DMM so how would i do this? is there any other way?
You REALLY want to bridge the amp for your install.
On the wiring kit - Your amp has 60A of internal fuses.
A good high-quality 8-gauge kit has a 60A main fuse and is fine.
A CHEAP 8-gauge wiring kit will have maybe a 40A main fuse.
But I don't know what your kit came with (but it likely isn't safe to use a larger fuse with it).
What I would recommend is:
(30A is just an example, the kit might have a 40A or 50A fuse - the point is to not go above the size fuse that came with the kit).
wonderful thank you.
Yep, it's fine, as far as I can tell, and it took a lot of work to get there.
We're in a gray area here, but the TC10DXPAC is not a Kicker model number, it is a package put together by a competitor from the picture containing a Kicker ZX400.1 (I think) amp, a Kicker Comp single truck box, and what (from the picture) seems to be a SoundQuest SQK8 wiring kit.
SoundQuest is a low-end brand made by Stinger (Stinger is good) but jungle site reviews said it was 8-gauge (but Copper-clad aluminum) and other sites said it did ship with a 60A fuse.
Based on the above, it should have no issues with your amp in bridged mode.
Merged two related threads, so the above will look jumbled.
mooseai dont have access to a DMM so how would i do this? is there any other way?
There isn't a way to limit the amps output short of a DMM (or oscilloscope or SMD Distortion Detector, but you won't have those either).
You can set the gain by ear, but DMM's are inexpensive - less than $15 most anywhere, less than $5 at Harbor Freight on sale - and they are fairly useful outside of car stereo also.
thank you so very much for your help. i will bridge the amp and post the results. if the bridging is unsuccessful will just the fuse blow or will i be in danger of a fire in my car?
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