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I have a 2002 Suburban and I have a question about the rear speakers in this vehicle. I have searched threads and maybe I am overlooking it but I would like to know if anyone has changed the rear factory sub (8") in a subrban, tahoe, yukon, ect.. I have pulled the rear panel away to see what is involved in this. It is, no doubt, a very shallow box, but it seems that it would be possible. I realize that I would have to fabricate something to mount this to the factory location but it doesn't look like it would be too hard. I plan on putting two tens in a box for better sound but I would like to retain this 8" in the event I have to take the tens out for room.I also would like to know if anyone has replaced the small rear speakers in the pillar. It looks like some 3.5"s would fit there with a fabricated bracket. I have already replaced the front doors with polk db components and the rear door with polk db coaxials, with and amp soon to come. Current head unit is a sony cdx-f7715x. If anyone has any info on this it would be greatly appreciated.
I haven't researched this, but I wanted to get you an answer ...
I think you are likely wasting your time trying to replace the factory sub - especially if you aren't going to replace the amp as well, and if you are adding dual 10's anyway.
You can probably keep the factory sub and amp and rig an on/off switch so it wasn't playing when the 10's were installed, but you could turn it on when they weren't.
The main amp might drown it out when you add it, though.
You could also go with an aftermarket amp and an aftermarket sub and use an A-B switch on the RCA's to select between the 8" and the dual 10's when you swap them in and out.
If you planned carefully, I think you could do it with a single amp at 2-ohms for the dual 10's and at 4-ohms for the single 8-inch and a quick disconnect to swap between them, but that would take some forethought.
I thought the rear pillar speakers were either 4x6's or 4x10's - either one would sound better than 3.5's.
Hope This Helps!!!
Anyone else have suggestions?
2002 Ford Focus JVC KD-A815 Sony CDX-GT410u Sony XT-100HD HD Tuner Stock speakers, no amp, no subs
I too have a 01 tahoe and had this same question. SInce I use my 3rd row I do not really have the room for a sub box. I have looked at the factory sub but cant find anything about it online. I have been looking to see if there were specs on this factory sub and the depth it uses. If you have any info on a site with demensions on a car that would be great. Thanks for the help CF yall are great.
P.S. I have the polk comp. and coax. just as you. I love them.
I picked up a kicker 8" sub and replaced mine because the stock was completely blown. FFDP will do that! The box was a little small for the new speaker so I had to grind on it a little to make it fit but I love to hide speakers. Unfortuntely this is a 4ohm speaker so it is NOT as loud as it was so upgrading the amp will be a requirement.
Here are the notes I made when I replaced mine a few months ago:
OEM Speaker Number: EASA20PL03A1 (made by Panasonic)2 Ohm5" deep approx.7" 1/4 opening8" 3/8 @ recess, but holes extend another 1/2"
I replaced it with a Kicker - CompVR4 Series 8" Dual-Voice-Coil 4-Ohm Subwoofer. All you have to do is trim the outer lip of plastic off the grille I did this in about 1 minute with a hacksaw) and it slips right in. I drilled 4 small holes (out of the 8 provided) and used 1" long sheet metal screws to fasten the speaker to the plastic box (polystyrene?). * Important: Make sure to wire the coils in parallel to provide the 2 ohm rating needed to match the stock amp configuration.
Also, you could even repair the factory sub for cheap. Take a look at this site - it has pictures of the exact OEM speaker made by Panasonic, both before and after the repair:
I know it has been a couple of years since your project was done, but do you remember how to pull the rear panel that exposes the the factory sub. I can not find any screws and I am afraid to pull on the plastic panel as I might break something.
To make it easier, remove your third row seat before starting.-Remove the two pieces of plastic trim that cover the rear hatch sill (the scuff plate) and also at the roof trim panel.-Pry out the push screw towards the bottom of the side panel (below the cargo net holder). You might be able to just grab the side panel and pull in order to get it coming out.-Remove the cargo net holder by unscrewing it counterclockwise.-Starting at the top edge, pry out the rear pillar trimpanel.-When you get it pulled off, you'll want to disconnect the speaker wire plug to the pillar mounted tweeter and set the panel aside.
Replacing the sub:Start at the rear and top edges of the side panel and pry the panel out to access the four Torx T-20 screws that secure the factory subwoofer. You should be able to open up the side panel far enough without having to pull it completely out. You will probably need to pry the factory woofer out as it will have sort of sealed itself to the box over time. I did this by getting a flat head between the speaker mounting holes and the plastic box and just prying.Remove the factory speaker and you are ready to install the new subwoofer. If you get a speaker that fits properly in the factory box, you'll most likely only need to drill pilots for new mounting screw holes.On the top of the factory box, you'll see a plug where the light green wire is + and dark blue is -. On the other side of the plug if you keep the factory box in, the wires going into the box will be red for the positive and black/red for the negative.
I put in the 8" Pioneer shallow mount TS-SW841D. It fit great and sounds much better than I would have expected with leaving all factory wiring and amplification for it. I only had to drill new screw holes. I did remove the pieces of carpet I assume was used in assembly as a filler for the box. I put in some poly-fill (pillow stuffing in my case) in its place.
Forgot to mention - if you are planning on removing the factory box in order to custom fit something, it should be as simple as just disconnecting the speaker plug on the top of the box and the removing two screws that hold it in.
Since I left mine in, I can't verify how easy it pulls out, but it looked to be just those two screws needing to come out and then tilting it to pull it up and out.
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