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Replacing Stock bose amp in '03 350Z coupe

Car Audio, Video, & GPS

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Replacing Stock bose amp in '03 350Z coupe

  • a couple months ago a friend who used to do car stereo installs replaced the stock bose headunit and rear speakers in my Z, then last week I replaced the speakers in the door, after noticing I have to turn my volume up quite a bit now I realized being a bose system it's probably got crap amps hidden everyone, and some searching yeilded the answer that there is a speaker amp hidden in the trunk.

    My question is: Can I remove the stock amp, and replace it with a new amp using the same location?/wiring? (I'd hate to have to rewire my Z, it was emotionally painful enough to have to take apart the perfect interior once) Is there some kind of adapter or something to be able to use that location and original wiring with an aftermarket amp? or do I just need to find a wire diagram and do some splicing? .. Basically what I'm hoping to be able to do/want to do, is swap the crap stock amp, with a new amp, use the same stock speaker amp location (if something'll fit there) and preferably the same wires already sent back there too (will the power wires even power an aftermarket amp?) so I don't have to do any rewiring, I'm not looking to build some kind of crazy uber powered system, I just want something that sounds descent but without having to rip my Z apart again (with-in reason, I realize what I need to do to the trunk to get at the amp)



    [edited by: J P at 12:33 PM (GMT -5) on Fri, Jun 24 2011] Changed to discussion.
  • Not quite following the question - need more info ...

    GCE1701D
    a couple months ago a friend who used to do car stereo installs replaced the stock bose headunit and rear speakers in my Z, then last week I replaced the speakers in the door

    Replaced the stock speakers and Bose headunit with the same model stock speakers and Bose headunit or with an aftermarket HU and speakers.

    If the stock BOSE HU and Bose speakers - you really can't do much to it, other than replace the stock Bose amp with another Bose amp - assuming the existing amp is bad.

    If aftermarket - you would probably get significantly better sound by simply bypassing the Bose amp and using the more powerful amp in the aftermarket HU - might be all you need.

    If it isn't all you need - there are small format (Vibe litebox for example), amps that you could probably install, but you would have to run RCA's to the amp and probably larger power and ground wires.

    Hope This Helps!!!

    Anyone else have suggestions?



    [edited by: TigerHeli at 11:33 AM (GMT -5) on Tue, Jun 7 2011]

    2002 Ford Focus JVC KD-A815 Sony CDX-GT410u Sony XT-100HD HD Tuner Stock speakers, no amp, no subs

  • Sorry about some of the vague info,

    it's the second scenario, aftermarket, replaced the Bose speakers and HU with new speakers and headunit, but didn't remember there was a speaker amp as well as the sub amp until I replaced the door speakers and realized I was suddenly having to turn the volume up so much more and figured the sub can wait for now, need to get that bose amp out of the equation

    So basically what I'm unsure of and wanting to clarify is what can I do without having to run new wiring? (since I really don't wanna take apart the interior again for awhile (or ever) if I don't have to). Can I stick an aftermarket amp where the stock one is without having to do a bunch of wiring running? just using the wires already ran back there? if the wiring harness is in the way splicing and figuring out which wire goes would be way easier than rewiring the car.

    Is the bose amp standing in the way of the stock HU's amp (I think it's an 80 watts per channel (4 channels) headunit) and just cutting the bose amp out and connecting the wires to eachother back there really going to make a noticable difference?

  • How much volume/power are you looking to get out of the system?

    Wiring info.

    GCE1701D
    So basically what I'm unsure of and wanting to clarify is what can I do without having to run new wiring? (since I really don't wanna take apart the interior again for awhile (or ever) if I don't have to).

    Easiest thing is just to bypass the Bose amp by connecting the input wires above to the corresponding output wires above.

    GCE1701D
    Can I stick an aftermarket amp where the stock one is without having to do a bunch of wiring running? just using the wires already ran back there? if the wiring harness is in the way splicing and figuring out which wire goes would be way easier than rewiring the car.

    Basically no, and not necessarily.  You would have to run new power and ground wires with an aftermarket amp.  You could tap into the output wiring there - but it might be just as easy or easier to mount the new amp under the seat or somewhere and run new wiring to/from there.

    GCE1701D
    Is the bose amp standing in the way of the stock HU's amp (I think it's an 80 watts per channel (4 channels) headunit) and just cutting the bose amp out and connecting the wires to eachother back there really going to make a noticable difference?

    Yes - I don't have hard numbers and I suspect your HU is no more than 20W RMS per channel, but the Bose amp is probably around 11-13W RMS and the aftermarket speakers are probably less effecient than the OEM ones, and the Bose output is what is going to the speakers so bypassing the Bose amp should put you back to a bit better than the OEM Bose system and you can decide from there if you need a true aftermarket amp or not.

    Hope This Helps!!!

    Anyone else have suggestions?

     

    2002 Ford Focus JVC KD-A815 Sony CDX-GT410u Sony XT-100HD HD Tuner Stock speakers, no amp, no subs

  • that does help thanks, and thanks for the link to the wiring info

    as much of a headache as it'll be with all the multi-colored wire madness I guess the quickest fix will be to bypass the amp since it's probably much weaker than the headunit its self would be anyway, since as far as how much volume/power I'm looking for is for starters to not have to turn it up over half way just to have it at a descent listening level with the car parked, and almost all the way to max once I hit the freeway Tongue Tied

    since I'm going to have to decide how I want to replace the sub, if I leave enough of the speaker amp and wires connected so the sub wires are untouched the stock 'sub' (oversized low quality speaker woofer more than a sub) should keep working right? since I'd just be joining the sets of speaker input/output wires together

  • GCE1701D
    as much of a headache as it'll be with all the multi-colored wire madness I guess the quickest fix will be to bypass the amp since it's probably much weaker than the headunit its self would be anyway,

    Agreed - sometimes there is an amp bypass harness you can buy, but I don't see one for the 350Z.

    GCE1701D
    since as far as how much volume/power I'm looking for is for starters to not have to turn it up over half way just to have it at a descent listening level with the car parked, and almost all the way to max once I hit the freeway

    Again - my advice is to first bypass the amp - you can then decide if the HU alone will work for you, or if you want an aftermarket amp (at which point you would have to bypass the OEM amp anyway).

    GCE1701D
    since I'm going to have to decide how I want to replace the sub, if I leave enough of the speaker amp and wires connected so the sub wires are untouched the stock 'sub' (oversized low quality speaker woofer more than a sub) should keep working right? since I'd just be joining the sets of speaker input/output wires together

    I've never tried this, but from the way I read CF's wiring info, it should actually probably not ...  it looks to me, like the Bose HU only sends 4-channel signal to the amp - the amp then splits this signal to the main speakers and signal to the subwoofer amp.  I "think" you could do it if you left the input wires to the amp connected to the amp, cut and capped the output wires for the main speakers at the amp, and spliced the imput wires to the amp to the speaker-end of the amp output wires for the amp.  However, you won't have control of the subwoofer volume from the headunit, and it might not blend well with the HU internal amp.  Also - be VERY careful if you do this, as if you have BOTH the Nissan amp and the HU internal amp connected to the same speaker, you risk shorting out either or both of the amplifiers.

    It's probably a better idea to just lose the sub - and for most OEM systems, the JVC headunit with full-range speakers will have as much or more bass anyway.

    Hope This Helps!!!

    Anyone else have suggestions?

    2002 Ford Focus JVC KD-A815 Sony CDX-GT410u Sony XT-100HD HD Tuner Stock speakers, no amp, no subs

  • So, here's what I've decided, and hopefully it will all fit, since I'm going to have to tear the trunk apart to get at the factory amp anyway, looking online I found a killer deal on an Infinity Kappa Five 50Wx4 + 350Wx1 class D amp, which would allow me to just replace everything I haven't already in one fell swoop, and hopefully shove the Kappa Five Amp in the same place the old factory one was since that's where the speaker output wires start anyway, and you said the factory wiring likely wont support more than 50W max as it is.

    I'll assume I'm probably going to have to run a new power line from the battery aalllll the way back to the trunk since I don't think the power cord going to the factory amp even has it's own fuse. but then with everything already back there it should be easier to run a wire to the factory sub location

    I'm leaning towards replacing the factory sub with an Infinity Kappa 100.9w subwoofer since it supports an infinite baffle installation, and I'd read on Z forums that the factory sub location isn't sealed, or isn't sealed very well, so you can only put a free-air sub there safely, I'm just not sure of the maximum depth and if the Kappa subwoofer will be able to fit there, if it can though I figure putting some dynamat down there and mayb shoving some dampening material in there might help with any defects it might have as an enclosure

  • Makes sense to me - the new amp will require new power and ground wires.

    Contact a CF advisor as they might have better info on the subwoofer depth - or make your own measurements or check on the Z forums.

    Hope This Helps!!!

    Anyone else have suggestions?

    2002 Ford Focus JVC KD-A815 Sony CDX-GT410u Sony XT-100HD HD Tuner Stock speakers, no amp, no subs

  • TigerHeli

    Contact a CF advisor as they might have better info on the subwoofer depth - or make your own measurements or check on the Z forums.

    There is plenty of depth per our measurements. There is up to 8.025" for the depth. The issue with replacing it is kind of a minor one; new screw holes will have to be drilled into the stock mounting plate. Once that is done, there should be nothing else to worry about since a new amp will be installed. Oh, and don't forget to run new speaker wire from the new amp to the subwoofer. I would not use the stock wire.

     http://www.crutchfield.com/bio/Paul

  • I'd like to know how this ended up working out for you? I'm thinking of doing almost the exact same thing.

  • So, there have been many revisions, but for a short time, I did have a KAPPA 5 Amp in the back where the stock amp was. Now, I did have to run a power cable from the battery to the back (there is a plastic grommet that can easily be cut/stretched that is there already in the firewall, it has all the wires running from the battery to the rest of the car so you can just widen the plastic a bit and slip a wire right through it. was the easiest part of the install I did.

    running to the back was easy enough, but you'll have to take off the majority of interior paneling to be able to tuck it behind things to hide it from view. there's a styrofoam cover for the original bose amp, it has to be kind of worked a bit, but you can completely hide the amp if you wish, I decided pretty shortly after to not hide it because I live in Phoenix and the darn thing would overheat quite easily in the summer I assumed. So I ended up taking some speaker wire and attaching it to the stock speaker leads back there and extending it far enough that I could just mount the amp to a custom speaker box I got that fits under the strut bar in the trunk.

    In the end the way I ended up configuring everything was I have the power cable running from the battery to the AMP along the right side of the car (the side where the battery is in the engine compartment) and then I ran RCA jacks from an out on the deck along the left side of the car to the AMP for audio input. I have all infinity KAPPA speakers, using the stock speaker wires because I didn't want to rip up the Z anymore. back where the stock AMP was I used the wiring Diagram to connect speaker wire to the front L/R and back L/R speaker output wires to give me enough length to mount the AMP to the back of the subwoofer box.

    now somewhere colder than Phoenix, or if someone wanted to like take out the spare tire and kind of work more room in there and stuff you could easily hide it all under the trunk mat, I just ended up decide it was best to leave it out and exposed because in the beginning I had to retune it several times and it would have been too hard to keep taking the trunk apart every time I needed to tweak something.

  • Probably higher risk of the amp overheating from being mounted in an incorrect manner to where the heatsinks cannot work properly.

    GLH Geeked