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So at the moment I have my 4 channel 600W pioneer amp (Pioneer GM-6400F) wired up and powering my speakers. I have used "high-to-low" converters on the front and rear speakers to change them from the cable from my headunit's wiring harness to 2 sets of RCA outputs. I have run 2 RCA splitters to run those to RCA output into on RCA input into my 4 channel amp. This works and does my speakers justice.
Now, as for my monoblock (Pioneer GM7200M) and sub (Polk MM1240DVC), I am having difficulties. I have 2 sets of existing RCA outputs in my head unit, and changed those via the use of RCA splitters to one RCA input, that connects to my monoblock. I then connect my sub to the monoblock and get nothing? Both amps get power, have no blown fuses and the sub works fine.
How can I get my sub to work nicely with this monoblock?
Your Pioneer 4 channel is 60 watts RMS per channel.
Something about that 2nd paragraph don't sound right, but not sure yet.
What make and model is your head ?
The 4 channel amp isn't bothering me at the moment. I've got my speakers powered up and working through it.
Umm, the make is Onix.. I'm not sure on the model as yet.
What part(s) of the second paragraph don't make sense?
the head unit has 2 sets of RCA out (2 red, 2 white).. Now I thought I was to use both of these RCA outputs into my mono block so i used RCA splitters like these to change that to 1 RCA that goes to monoblock.
Does that help clarify?
That's the part that don't sound right. You can't combine the 4 preouts into 2. 1 of the preout pairs is either for sub only or switchable rear or sub. You should be able to go into the head's audio menu to change or check it. The other should be for the front channel, but you can split it for the 4 channel amp if you don't mind no fader. Are the preouts not labeled ?
Ahhh okayy. Thought It would give a better bass if I split the preouts. I'm fairly sure the preouts are labelled. I can't quite see right now as it is quite dark right now. I will check in the morning and try just running the RCA through the rear preouts (if they are labeled) and will get back to you about how it turns out.
Thanks for your help so far :).
All right. Plugged the monoblock's RCA into the rear RCA pre-outs from the "ONIX AN-8006" head unit. POwered it up, 12V power input, 0V power output? Problem?
800W amp to a 425W sub is a bit much, but ...
The existing 4-channel wiring doesn't make sense, but we need to more info on the head unit to sort it out.
(You shouldn't need high-to-low converters if you have two sets of head unit RCA's and if you are using high-to-low converters, you shouldn't need an RCA splitter).
I can't find any info on an Onix (or Onyx either) AN-8006 head unit. I found info on a Renkforce AN-8006, but it supposedly only has one set of RCA pre-outs.
Okay - you said the head unit has two sets of RCA preouts - two white and two red.
We need to know how these are set up. They could be:
Once you have the RCA connections sorted out and the amp power, remote and subwoofer wiring verified, there are only a few more reasons that the sub would not play:
Hope This Helps!!!
Anyone else have suggestions?
2002 Ford Focus JVC KD-A815 Sony CDX-GT410u Sony XT-100HD HD Tuner Stock speakers, no amp, no subs
800W peak amp. 360W at 2 ohms, which is roughly what I need, maybe a little more.
I chose the high-to-low converters as it bring the sound down (as the name suggests) to a lower impedence level which sounds nicer then running the RCAs straight to the amp.
The RCA pre-out and front and rear only, where I have the rear RCA out running to my monoblock, which as I have stated, gives no output via the speaker output terminals. I know my RCA wires from the HU to my monoblock work, as i have swapped them to the 4 channel and the 4 channel still works.
The monoblock is gettinng power, as the pioneer light, illuminates as it receives the 12V power input and is grounded to the chassis. The remote control wiring is correct, otherwise the amp's light would not illuminate.
The HU was a cheap one I bought ($80) but had the 2 RCA pre-outs, usb, sd card, aux and cd player in that I wanted. It does the job just fine. I can say it has a power output of 200W from memory. The HU only has a few functions, bass, treble, faders and balance. The gain on the monoblock is set at the "normal" mark on the case, and the LPF is set about halfway between the 40 and 240Hz
What else do you need to know? As I'm fairly sure the monoblock is dead inside and will need replacing (it's going on 5 years old now anyway!!)
Okayy, so after taking the monoblock apart myself and tampering with it a little, I get very little, next to no output through the sub. I have tried changing the gain and LPF, and with the gain on full, the sub is pathetitc sounding.. My JVC 5-1/4 speakers give off more bass.
What would this suggest?
I've been looking at two new monoblocks..
The Kenwood KAC-8105D $258
Or the Cadence Xenith Xa400.1 $258
Now they are both the same price, however the Kenwood gives 500W at 2 ohms, meaning more power... Whereas the Cadence gives 425W at 2 ohms, but is a digital amp, and would give a nicer sound..
Isn't the Kenwood also digital ? $200 at Crutchfield.com -
I'm unaware if the kenwood is also digital... Is it? Also, how long would shipping of an amp from crutchield to Brisbane, Australia take? And would that shipping still be free if it's possible to have the amp shipped here?
Good questions for 1-800-555-8260
xMD800W peak amp. 360W at 2 ohms, which is roughly what I need, maybe a little more.
Correct - I erroneously looked at the top line of the page you linked to.
xMDI chose the high-to-low converters as it bring the sound down (as the name suggests) to a lower impedence level which sounds nicer then running the RCAs straight to the amp.
Incorrect - They bring the output down to a lower voltage, which the amp is designed to handle on the RCA inputs (same as the RCA pre-outs on the HU). Other than the fact that many of them have a gain adjustment and the head unit pre-outs might be 2V, there is no reason for them to sound better.
xMDThe RCA pre-out and front and rear only, where I have the rear RCA out running to my monoblock, which as I have stated, gives no output via the speaker output terminals. I know my RCA wires from the HU to my monoblock work, as i have swapped them to the 4 channel and the 4 channel still works
Again, I would really recommend running front and rear RCA's (from the Head Unit or the hi-lo converters) to the 4-channel and then using the output RCA's on the 4-channel to feed the monoblock - it does seem like the monoblock is DOA at this point, though.
Whereas the Cadence gives 425W at 2 ohms, but is a digital amp, and would give a nicer sound..
Also incorrect. A digital amp will draw less current and generate less heat. They generally have MORE distortion, but with subwoofers it is normally not an issue.
I'm unaware if the kenwood is also
digital... Is it? Also, how long would shipping of an amp from
crutchield to Brisbane, Australia take? And would that shipping still be
free if it's possible to have the amp shipped here?
Yes, that's why there's the D at the end of the model number. (Ermm - well, it is Class D - which is what I was referring to above. That doesn't really mean digital, I don't think, but I don't know that the Cadence is significantly different.)
Also, check with an advisor, but I don't think Crutchfield sells internationally (other than Crutchfield Canada to Canada - which is a different company). I think you would have to have someone in the US buy the amp and ship it to you.
The D in class D amplifiers merely refers to the circuitry used in the amp. The D is merely used as it comes next in the alphabet. It'd be like calling it a 4th circuitry method amplifier.
Thanks Weigel21 - I realized that after I started typing.
OTOH - I can't access the Cadence site - is there any information on there about the amp being digital? (Not sure it would make much difference as the inputs and outputs are all analog anyway, but I guess it could run it through an A-D, amplify it and then run it through a D-A).
Also - I'm not sure about Cadence any more. They used to be really good, but the amp on the jungle river site looks a lot like the Quantum you mentioned here.
(I'm wondering if perhaps they were sold and sold-out).
I skimmed through the manual and it doesn't say anything about it having digital circuitry, at least not that I saw. Also, the only similarity between the Cadence and Quantum amp that I see is the color scheme.
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