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Hey guys... So im really stumped right now :S i Went from running a
Hifonics Brutus BRZ1200.1D to running a Hifonics Colossus. I set them
both up using the exact same method. DMM!
The brutus was set to 1000RMS at 1 ohm so about 32volts.
The colossus was set to 1500RMS at 4ohm bridged so about 77.5 volts.
Now the thing im really confused about is the fact that instead of my subs setting louder with more power, they are quieter now!
I am pretty confused right now...... Also my subs are being overpowered.
The brutus ran them to their rated 1000 RMS but then with being
overpowered they arnt as loud and they do stink up just a little bit. I
realize i need to back off the gains and will do.
Just dont see why they are now quieter with more power? Brutus could
flex the windshield but this cant anymore without stinking them up :S
Any ideas? Ohhh and i checked for clipping. This new Colossus is running
clean. Brutus was unknown :S
JVC KD-AVX44, 2 Massive Audio Hippo 8's , Hifonics Colossus going back in soon, MB Quart ONX216, Fli audio FL450S-F2, Energy ENC693x2 in rear deck, 6 gauge kit plus a huge 3 gauge kit. Custom built box for my 8's :)
Stinking? Yep, you're over working your subs and burning them up. The power may be clean, but they just can't handle it and with the excessive heat build up their performance is being compromised.
Also, you say you went from running at 1 ohm to 4 ohms. So you had to have rewired them, sure you didn't wire them out of phase?
yes their deinfatly overpowered. but they never sound as loud now. even in the beginning before heat starts to build up their not as loud as they were on my brutus :S just seems very wierd unless i was clipping the brutus. But with the brutus they never stunk up.
As for rewiring. I checked this out in my house with an amp and played a 5hz tone. Both move at the same time and doing one coil at a time didnt make things louder or get them to move more. I wired them out of phase on the coils and they didnt move as much so i knew i had them right. I'll check later to how their wired exactly and post here.
shakplayed a 5hz tone
Did you mean 50 hz ?
no i ment a 5HZ tone off a house amp.. old skool amp :P ran that thing bridged at 1ohm a few times too :P played a 5Hz track and they both moved the same amount and at the same time.
But today i just played around a little and realized one sub was warmer then the other. All the coils read fine. The warmer sub was in a corner when the box moved while driving and the colder sub was in the open :S so im not too sure here a video of them wired:
EDIT: forgot to say i did some testing today and the subs were just cold or frozen before. they are definatly louder and cause some good flex now :D Loving the amp just no clue why one sub was warm while one was cold! :S
shakLoving the amp just no clue why one sub was warm while one was cold! :S
yes both subs were bought together and broken in at the same time. Its my same old coustic CF1044 subs :P i had them on the brutus and when they warmed up slightly they both warmed up at the exact same time. one wasnt warmer then the other. But now with this colossus one is warm while the other is cold :S
EDIT: they also both appear to move the same. uploading a video of them right now :P will post here :)
hmm, and they both measure equal impedance? very unusual indeed. just for added assurance, i might try to re-strip fresh wire ends. maybe a speaker lead got oxidized somewhere in the mix and makes a weaker connection than the others. the wires don't really look old tho, so this doesn't seem like a winning idea.
yes all coils read out 4.1 to 4.2 ohms on my dmm .. and as i was rewiring them for 4ohms final i did redo all the wire ends. All fresh ends. Even the wire coming from the amp was redone. All wires are fine and final impedance was 3.7 ohms i believe? so everything seemed fine. Subs look like their moving the same. Maybe just because the box slide and one sub was into a corner? It has 2-3 inches of space behind it whereas the other had a foot or so. Maybe i should have that main wire from the amp splitting like i did before? So that end connects to that left sub and also to the right sub? way on the far right and far left? This wouldnt change anything would it? in terms of impedance or anything?
Keep levels low while watching this :
thats them running and things seem to look and sound fine. :S
shakMaybe i should have that main wire from the amp splitting like i did before?
the colossus is a dual mono. internally its 2 amps strapped. So i can be bridged at 2ohms at the lowest. could do 1ohm on only 1 channel if i wanted :P still would be more then enough power. Just trying to use the whole amp since i just got it and making sure everything is working fine :)
just to confirm, the subs are no longer heating unequally, right?
I tested them this morning and they were louder. Just needed to warm up as it was cold outside.
To answer your question. No. One is warm one is cold. Last time i tested was in that video. Away for the weekend but will rewire and retest alot next weekend as i got the whole weekend hopefully :)
my only remaining thought is such a long-shot, it's not worth mentioning... wire both subs to 1 ohm on one channel of the amp. i haven't seen dual mono amps before, so i really don't know what is going on under the hood to differentiate them from a 2-channel. they're obviously over-powered, so it can't hurt them to take them down to 750 RMS each.
J Ro take them down to 750 RMS each.
my last last, final final thought is that one of the subs has been over-heated or mechanically damaged from overcursion. kind of a scary thought, cuz i have no idea how to check for this without an o-scope or extreme critical listening sessions (or more likely, both).
theoretically (and this is loose science at best) the voice-coil can no longer support the amount of power you're giving it. a thorough examination usually will not reveal the status of the voice-coils, so it may look perfectly fine (and maybe it is... see how difficult this is?).
a DMM is the easiest way to get a status on the voice-coil, but that's a flawed method. the cone isn't moving during a routine impedance check, so they could be damaged mechanically at a point that is only incurred during extreme excursion... reasonable to theorize about, but difficult or impossible to know for sure.
the only sure-fire way i can think of is to swap in a different pair of subs and see if the problem remains... kind of costly fault-isolation if you don't have spare subs lying around.
short answer... i'm just stumped
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