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-Keep factory head unit - open to suggestions - it just raises the budget substantially
-put polk db6501's in the front and polk db651's in the rear.
-I have a Pioneer GM-X1034 (65 x 4 or 150 x 2) - need to figure out best use for this
-install polk's in the front and rear and power from factory HU
-no amp at all
option 2(what i'd like)
-install polks in front and rear and power from factory HU
-install 2 x 10" or 2 x 12" subs in the trunk and power with the Pioneer amp
-install polks in the front and rear and power from Pioneer amp
-power new subs with new amp
option 5(breaking the bank)
- install new head unit
It is going to depend on what you listen to - how loud you want it, and how much you want to spend (and giving up trunk space etc.)
Any of the options are very possible - plus some others (below)
Option 1 is no cost and Option 3 is no cost except an amp wiring kit, so you might try those first and go from there.
edubsKeep factory head unit - open to suggestions - it just raises the budget substantially
Not very substantial - well, $130-$200 for a fairly good one. However, the OEM HU amp is likely the weak point of the system and a new one likely has USB and iPod support, better EQ controls, subwoofer volume control from the HU. (Also, some cars incorporate weird EQ settings in the factory HU to make the cheap speakers sound good - not sure if your's does or not - it's usually the first (and often enough only) thing I replace.)
I would definitely invest in the HU before bothering with, say, amping the rear speakers or adding a second sub.
Option 1 - Factory HU is probably 4-5 W RMS. Polks are fairly efficient but tend to like a LOT of power. This might sound worse than doing nothing, but it's a good starting point.
Option 2 - Doable - same drawbacks as above and J Ro usually mentions double the front speaker power to a subwoofer. 300W RMS of subwoofers with 10W (maybe) of front speaker power is a good bit of overkill.
Option 3 - Can work very well if you listen to music (classic rock, country, etc.) without a lot of low subwoofer range bass.
Option 3A - Power the front polks off the front Pioneer amp channels. Power the rear Polks off the HU (or disconnect altogether). Power a 150W RMS 4-ohm sub off the rear Pioneer amp channels - Probably your most cost effective if you want clean and fairly balanced sound.
Option 4 and 5 - Now we're talking - just kidding - these are ideal, but not sure how much you plan to spend. How much do you plan to spend?
Hope This Helps!!!
Anyone else have suggestions?
2002 Ford Focus JVC KD-A815 Sony CDX-GT410u Sony XT-100HD HD Tuner Stock
speakers, no amp, no subs
My plan is now changed ..I'm goign to replace the factory head unit- I am buying the Sony WX-GT77UI head unit.
I need to decide what to do with my amp - Pioneer GM-X1034 - If I power my polk db6501s in the front with 2 channels - is it possible to bridge the other 2 channels into my sub and get 130RMS going in to it...I'm not too good with this stuff..I want to be sure to use the amp to its best potential.
I would then install polk db651's into the rear and power off the factory head unit.
my other option is to buy 2 sets of polk db6501 for front and rear..then buy a new sub and new amp to power it.
I am looking at a single JL Audio 12W0v2-4 for my sub ...anyone have any other recommendations?
Nice looking head unit.
edubsI need to decide what to do with my amp - Pioneer GM-X1034 - If I power my polk db6501s in the front with 2 channels - is it possible to bridge the other 2 channels into my sub and get 130RMS going in to it...
No, it's not possible to get 130W RMS - you'll have to settle for the 150W RMS that the amp is rated for. Just kidding - that was option 3A above. You just need to make sure the sub is 4-ohms - either SVC-4-ohm or DVC-2-ohm.
edubsmy other option is to buy 2 sets of polk db6501 for front and rear..then buy a new sub and new amp to power it.
Nothing wrong with that, but you could amp the db651's off the Pioneer amp as well and get another sub and a 300W RMS sub amp down the line.
edubsI am looking at a single JL Audio 12W0v2-4 for my sub ...anyone have any other recommendations?
Hard to go wrong with JL - but that's a 300W RMS sub - you might want to go with something like these that get closer to the amp RMS.
So, the plan keeps evolving...i just bought a pair of JL Audio 12W1v2-4 in box for $100 off craigslist - they are rated 150 RMS - do you think using my premier GM-X1034 AMP to push them will be sufficient? From what I can read on the RMS rating it will be perfect.(150 x 2) 4ohm
I'm going to buy a 50-75 x 2 RMS amp for my components(maybe a rockford fosgate or kenwood) in the front and power the rears off the HU.
Those Polks are power hungry and not sure how the rears will do with only head power. I would amp all 4 and just turn the rears down lower than the fronts. Give the fronts plenty, they can handle more than 100 watts RMS, properly highpassed with a clean signal and amp gains set correctly. The JL amps here would be about perfect for them.
There are four scenarios that could work well:
SO all my equipment has arrived except for my final AMP -
Review of setup:
polk db6501 components for front - looking for AMP to power these speakers.
polk db651 in rear running off HU
2 x JL12W3 running off old GM-X1034 pioneer premier amp
What are your thoughts on the Kenwood KAC-5204? http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113KAC5204/Kenwood-KAC-5204.html?search=KAC+5204
I see most people use them for subs...is it appropriate for component speakers?
Not really a great amp for subs - well, not bad for a single basic 150W SVC-4-ohm sub. It will work fine for components, but it is only 60W RMS. I like ANY of the amps GLH recommended better, but of course, they are more expensive.
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