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I'm trying to install a new receiver and front and rear speakers (walmart special for $85! - Pioneer DXT-2369UB - my old speakers are blown to bits) in my 1995 chrysler cirrus lxi. I've never really performed this kind of modication before and I just have a question about the rear speakers.
I see that I have 4 wires going into a proprietary type connector on the factory speaker. The other end of that connector has 4 leads. 2 going to a positive and negative terminal near the bottom of the magnet and 2 (these look different, like twisted wire) going up into the top cone, I think. There is also an amplifier under my passenger seat. On my new pioneer 3-way speakers I see only 2 terminals. The same type of twisted wires that were on different leads on the connector are soldered into the positive and negative terminal along with the other type of wire.
My questions are, how do I go about hooking my rear speakers into this 4 wire connector (which, by the way, look more rectangular than the front speaker connector which is pretty square)? Is it just as simple as connecting 2 wires to the positive and 2 wires to the negative? Do i need to bypass the amplifier? If so, how do i do that? Is there a range of sound associated with the 4 wires or is it power related? Are there any aftermarket speaker connector harnesses for the rear speakers, so I dont go chopping off these connectors? I already have the front speaker harness, I just couldnt find any for the rear..
Any information that would help me out would be greatly appreciated! Also, if you need any more information, let me know. I'll get you all the info you need. Thanks!
Great deal on the receiver/speaker package.
It's going to be a bit more complicated than your standard install, but you seem to have most of the details worked out.
I assume you have the receiver harness. I also don't see a rear speaker adapter or amp bypass adapter for your car.
Your suspicions are correct. The treble and bass on the rear speakers are amplified by separate channels on the amplifier and the only way to get full-range sound from your rear speakers will be to bypass the amp (which is recommended anyway as the Pioneer head unit internal amp is probably more powerful). (GM used a similar setup in some of their Monsoon systems.)
Apparently, you have a similar setup with the door and dash speakers so I suspect if you don't bypass the amp you will only get bass out of the replacement door speakers and treble will go to the dash speakers, if they are still working and connected.
You will also end up lopping off the rear speaker connectors, but that isn't really a big deal on a 1995 as I doubt you would be installing factory speakers if you ever sell the car.
There are three (two) ways to do it, depending on what you are comfortable with:
Note that I used the rear LOW speaker wires so you would want to match the corresponding wire colors when you connect the rear speakers. (Probably a good idea to tape over the connectors plugs so they can't short out.)
If it were my car, I'd probably splice the connectors at the amp and be done with it - assuming the wiring is still in decent shape.
Hope This Helps!!!
Anyone else have suggestions?
EDIT: Fixed LF+ Pin Numbers
2002 Ford Focus JVC KD-A815 Sony CDX-GT410u Sony XT-100HD HD Tuner Stock
speakers, no amp, no subs
lftWouldn't I lose power antenna and dash speakers associated with those plugs if I leave them unplugged?
Power antenna - You would also want to splice Pin 4 to Pin 24. Seem odd for them to run that circuit through the amp, but it looks like they did. Good catch.
Dash speakers - Your original comment was "my old speakers are blown to bits" and I saw no mention of replacing the dash speakers or of the dash speakers being in good shape. My description disconnects the dash speakers and sends a full-power, full-range signal from the head unit to the front door speakers (which I might recommend even if the dash speakers still work.)
If you want to keep them connected - basically you would follow the second part of my initial wiring comment (and you would not need to run splices to keep the power antenna. (But the new door speakers would only play bass.
Removal - Found some info here - but it's more involved than you need. Auto parts stores near me don't let you "borrow" the haynes or Chilton's manuals - but if they have an open (not shrink-wrapped) book, they will often let you look it up in the store. Libraries often have them as well. Also - many autoparts stores now essentially have auto parts catalogs, so if you look up front window motor replacement, it will probably tell you how to remove the door panel. Crutchfield also sells Mastersheets for $10 with a credit toward a future purchase, but they mostly cover replacement, not rewiring. Ultimately, you are probably going to have to figure out for yourself how to do some of the removal if you go that route.
Thank you, TigerHeli!
I do have the wiring harness and dash install kit.
This is very good information. I'll probably just do the easiest and almost as good method you suggested and it only requires a few splicing of cables at the amplifier instead of pulling up trim.
Also, I assume I will need to plug the connectors back into the amp after I splice out the wires for the speakers?
The best idea, and not hard at all, is just to run new 18-16 gauge speaker wire from the new head to each new speaker, straight runs, bypassing the amp.
i can try to this. do you know of any trim removal guides for my car that might tell me where i need to start removing trim? i want to do it right the first time so i dont have to go back and do it again. thanks for your reply glh.
google is your friend
lftAlso, I assume I will need to plug the connectors back into the amp after I splice out the wires for the speakers?
(That's why I mentioned taping over the connector plugs).
Once you splice the inputs and outputs together the amp is bypassed. You don't need it in the system, and you could remove it, it is just added weight in the vehicle at that point.
More importantly, though - if you did wire it the way I said and plugged the connectors back in, the amp would be powered and BOTH the Chrysler amp and the head unit (radio amp) would try to power the speaker. That doesn't sound like a bad thing in itself - but it also means that at the speaker connection, the output of the Chrysler amp and the output of the head unit amp are connected to each other. That IS a bad thing, because the output of one amp can "back-feed" into the other amp - probably frying one of both of them. I've never tried it personally, but trust me that it's a BAD idea.
(It's the same reason you install an amp in-line between the head unit and the speakers, but you never install it in parallel with BOTH the head unit and the amp connected to the speakers).
google is your friend
In this case, I'm not so sure. I may be typing in the wrong words but I searched for 1995 chrysler cirrus trim panel removal and nothing really came up. I'm not worried about the door panels as I have already removed them before. Thanks for your suggestions!
I'm not sure I understand what you mean. Wouldn't I lose power antenna and dash speakers associated with those plugs if I leave them unplugged? I figured once I cut those wires you referenced they would no longer be inline with the amp and thus only get power from the head unit.
Some parts stores will let you borrow Chilton or other manuals. Autozone and Advanced do here.
Okay this makes sense but I have a blue wire labeled power antenna on my new harness and a white with blue line on my head unit power harness labeled remote system control. Do I connect those together to get power to my antenna and splice pin 4 to 24 at the amp? I'm also curious about that link you sent me about the wiring info. Curiously, right under the fuse box information, there is some hidden text (if you highlight it with mouse you will see what I'm talking about. It has information about bypassing the amp for power antenna. Is that basically what you were talking about with pin 4 and pin 24?
I also have an orange dash illumination wire on the new wire harness but nowhere to connect it on my power harness for the head unit. Do i just tape the end up and forget about it?
Thanks again, TigerHeli!
lftOkay this makes sense but I have a blue wire labeled power antenna on my new harness and a white with blue line on my head unit power harness labeled remote system control. Do I connect those together to get power to my antenna and splice pin 4 to 24 at the amp? I'm also curious about that link you sent me about the wiring info. Curiously, right under the fuse box information, there is some hidden text (if you highlight it with mouse you will see what I'm talking about. It has information about bypassing the amp for power antenna. Is that basically what you were talking about with pin 4 and pin 24?
Yep - that's what I am talking about. Not sure why Crutchfield did the white text on white thing.
First off - does your car indeed have a power antenna? (If not, we are wasting a lot of effort on something that doesn't matter - although some cars use an antenna booster on the same circuit).
The head unit would usually have a blue wire labelled Power ANT that you should use, or maybe a blue with white stripe wire labelled REMOTE SYSTEM that you could use instead. I don't have wiring info on the Pioneer head, though.
lftI also have an orange dash illumination wire on the new wire harness but nowhere to connect it on my power harness for the head unit. Do i just tape the end up and forget about it?
Yes, but I'll explain this as it confuses a lot of people.
I finally had some time to hook everything up and I have to say my car has never sounded so good. I cut only the wires I needed to at the amp and soldered every connection (btw LF+ is pin 10 to pin 22 ;) ). I hid all the wires I soldered underneath the amp so that they won't get caught on any wandering hands, haha. Power antenna also works! I got to say this was a very rewarding experience for only a couple hours and some ingenuity. I also had to drill some new holes in my door for my front speakers because the speaker grill wouldn't fit over the new speakers if I used the adapter plates to go from 6.5 to 6.75 speakers. Thanks for all the great information , TigerHeli!
Glad to know it worked out. I fixed my typo above - also glad you double-checked and were able to figure out what I meant rather than what I typed.
I followed all of this and it seems new wires would be easiest but would scratch on the new holes causing them to short. pulling up the seat sounds best, one question i have is what if you just connected the rear speakers two positives and two negatives together in their own terminals and hooked up the speakers that way and just done the front as normal but you took power away from the amp so that there would be now "amp" to back feed into the head unit. I have the same car and i believe the same radio and speaker set-up package.?? so would removing power do the same trick and only use the head units amp and no power to factory.
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