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2000 Accord Front Speaker Replacement

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2000 Accord Front Speaker Replacement

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Hello all.

I recently posted about replacing rear speakers in my 2000 accord 4 door EX. The speakers I got to replace blown stock speakers are incredible. I now want to replace my front speakers with a set of components. I plan on placing the tweeters in the factory locations, and I looked up a service manual page on speakers and the factory speakers are really easy to remove, they just pry off the dashboard. Where I'm uncertain is how the current speakers are wired up. Does anyone have any wiring diagrams or any experience that could tell me how they're wired? Are the tweeters just hooked up to bass blocked full range signal or is there a real crossover somewhere? If so, where is it, and how hard is it to access? Because if I were to replace the front speakers with a component set I would need to replace the factory crossover or whatever Honda used with the crossover that comes with the speakers. Replacing the speakers themselves doesn't seem that hard, especially using honda wiring harness adapters. It's the crossover part that has be uncertain. I'm not planning on running new wiring that I don't have to. So if I could just pretty much stick the crossovers that come with the new speakers where the factory one is (if there is one) then that would be wonderful. I don't mind pulling some stuff apart to access wiring as long as it's not too complex. I've pulled apart my dash area before, but I've never had to dig deep through wiring or anything. Wiring diagrams would be the greatest help if anyone has them.

 

Thank you in advance!

Verified Answer
  • Crossover modules might be in the door panels. Inline crossovers are really just part of the wiring and don't take up any real space. It is highly possible there is not a stock amp in the vehicle and only inline crossovers. The new crossovers can go in the door panels or anywhere that is convenient and they fit as long as they aren't in the way of moving parts and they are secured from moving about.

    Another thing to consider is the age of the small cheap stock speaker wire in that vehicle. It is likely 18-22 gauge with brittle insulation. I would not be happy installing an aftermarket head and new speakers in a vehicle that old (dang good car, btw, not doggin it) without running new 16-18 gauge copper speaker wire.

    You are going to want a 4 x 50 watts RMS amp eventually.

    http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/CompareTo.aspx?compareItems=01|777P65C&compareItems=01|206DS62&compareItems=01|206KS62&g=410



    [edited by: GLH at 8:30 AM (GMT -5) on Fri, Feb 17 2012]

    GLH Geeked

  • Not sure if door panel removal is required to replace the front speakers, but the Mastersheets you got when you bought the other speakers (if from Crutchfield) should say.

    I don't know of ANY aftermarket component speakers that use inline crossovers as opposed to modules.  (I stand corrected - Kenwood does, Rockford does also).

    It there's not a huge price difference, I'd recommend the modules, but the explanation is pretty involved.

    See this page for the technical discussion.

    A simple first-order crossover has a 6dB per octave roll-off.

    For tweeters, it consists of a capacitor or bass blocker to act as an HPF.

    For woofers, it consists of a coil or inductor to act as an LPF.

    2nd and third order crossovers have a higher roll-off and require more components.

    The simplest system used by Rockford on some systems contains only an inline HPF on the tweeter.  The woofer really can't play high notes so sending it a full range signal doesn't do any damage.

    The Kenwood system simply uses a coil attached to the woofer and a capacitor in-line with the tweeter.

    The crossover module might just be a coil and a capacitor in a plastic box, but it could also be higher order as well.  I'm not sure how important this is, though.  It is also likely to be higher quality, but I can't say that for certain either.

    Hope This Helps!!!

    Anyone else have suggestions?

    2002 Ford Focus JVC KD-A815 Sony CDX-GT410u Sony XT-100HD HD Tuner Stock speakers, no amp, no subs

  • MusicMan374
    I checked out those kickers, and on the kicker website, it says the DS6.2 and the KS6.2 are 6 inch speakers. Why is crutchfield saying 6 and a half for ones kicker claims is 6 and 6 3/4 for ones kicker claims is 6.5? I don't understand that.

    you may have read some info wrong (kicker doesn't currently make a 6" anything).  they're all 6.5, and in some circumstances (depending on vehicle) 6.75" is possible.

    MusicMan374
    my decision will come down to the size of my current tweeters and what will fit.

    tweeters are so tiny it should be easy to adapt the vehicle to make them fit pretty much anywhere,  but i understand if you're not willing to do that.  if you aren't familiar with cutting a hole at all, this is probably too big a project for you and you should just go with what fits. 

    MusicMan374
    How should I go about mounting the crossover box?

    i like to use spare sound deadening inside a door, but passive crossovers are solid-state devices and hence aren't particularly sensitive to vibration so you can pretty much mount them anywhere.  you can screw them down or just use the included velcro tabs (if they came with them...) or buy some cheap Velcro tabs of your own or use friction tape... geez... there are so many options!  as long as you mount the x-overs in a way that won't stress the connections, it will work!

    MusicMan374
    The only concern I have is if I ever wanted to change the dB level of the tweeters, I would have to take off the door panel. So I guess I just have to get it right when I install it and do further adjustments with the head unit?

    i would assume you set the level before closing up the door panel, but if not, yeah you can make final adjustments from the HU.  no doubt you'll be playing with those settings anyway.

     

  • MusicMan374
    I don't know if I know anyone that would have any know-how in this area though.

    Find a high-school or college kid ...Devil

    Not harping on this - I usually recommend installing your own equipment and we can walk you through it - it just makes me a bit nervous when someone is looking to install a stereo but doesn't own a soldering iron or crimping pliers.

    There are a lot of things that aren't really obvious when you try this if you aren't used to working on cars.

    For example:

    • Typically you have to pry the door panel off (after removing a few screws).  If you don't pry hard enough, you won't get it b/c you're afraid of breaking something.  If you pry too hard in the wrong area, you WILL break something.  The trick is to feel for where the fastener is and only pry in that area, but ...
    • Similarly, the tweeters aren't going to be a drop-in replacement, they come with mounting adapters which you probably have to cut and or modify to fit the factory locations.
    • The tweeter wires will not "just fall in" to the foot well area - you are going to have to route them through the doors and tape them to something so that the window does yank them off as the window rolls up and down, they you probably need to drill out the molex to get them into the kick panel area and remove the interior kick panel and possibly the lower dash to route them to the head unit.

    It isn't that difficult, but it isn't necessarily intuitive either...

    Hope This Helps!!!

    Anyone else have suggestions?

    2002 Ford Focus JVC KD-A815 Sony CDX-GT410u Sony XT-100HD HD Tuner Stock speakers, no amp, no subs

All Replies
  • You might answer your own questions if you go ahead and access the front factory speakers. There might be a crossover that feeds the woofer and tweeter seperately or there might just be an inline 'bassblocker' between the woofer and tweeter.

    What speakers do you use in the rear ?

    http://crutchfield.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/5452/kw/2000%20Honda%20Accord%20EX

    Are you using the stock head ? Does it say anything other than Honda or even that on it ? Anything like premium or high power ?

     

    GLH Geeked

  • I think you were one of the people replying on a previous thread about my rear speakers. I'm using Kicker KS69 2way coaxials in the rear. I have an Alpine head unit, no external amp power. 18 watts RMS, 50w peak. I believe the model number is CDA-9847 if I remember correctly. It's one that's not still being made, installed before I bought the car. That wiring diagram should help, thank you. I just can't imagine where the crossovers would be if there are any, or where the bass blockers would be if there are any. Might they be in the door panel? I doubt they'd be near the tweeters as it's a much harder area to access, requiring removal of the entire dashboard to access. The door panel is much easier to remove than the dash, so when I have some spare time maybe I'll go exploring in there to see if I can find out how the tweeters are wired up.

  • Crossover modules might be in the door panels. Inline crossovers are really just part of the wiring and don't take up any real space. It is highly possible there is not a stock amp in the vehicle and only inline crossovers. The new crossovers can go in the door panels or anywhere that is convenient and they fit as long as they aren't in the way of moving parts and they are secured from moving about.

    Another thing to consider is the age of the small cheap stock speaker wire in that vehicle. It is likely 18-22 gauge with brittle insulation. I would not be happy installing an aftermarket head and new speakers in a vehicle that old (dang good car, btw, not doggin it) without running new 16-18 gauge copper speaker wire.

    You are going to want a 4 x 50 watts RMS amp eventually.

    http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/CompareTo.aspx?compareItems=01|777P65C&compareItems=01|206DS62&compareItems=01|206KS62&g=410



    [edited by: GLH at 8:30 AM (GMT -5) on Fri, Feb 17 2012]

    GLH Geeked

  • So then is there any disadvantage to buying a set with inline crossovers versus modules? I agree about the speaker wire, I will probably run new wire when I get a new amp, but I'm staggering the upgrades as I have the money to do them. I will remove my door panel and see if I can find a crossover of any sort in the line. I will also pry up the tweeters. It'll also give me some experience with removing the door panel so it doesn't take forever when I go to install the speakers. I should also measure the diameter of the current tweeters so I make sure I get a set that fits.

  • Not sure if door panel removal is required to replace the front speakers, but the Mastersheets you got when you bought the other speakers (if from Crutchfield) should say.

    I don't know of ANY aftermarket component speakers that use inline crossovers as opposed to modules.  (I stand corrected - Kenwood does, Rockford does also).

    It there's not a huge price difference, I'd recommend the modules, but the explanation is pretty involved.

    See this page for the technical discussion.

    A simple first-order crossover has a 6dB per octave roll-off.

    For tweeters, it consists of a capacitor or bass blocker to act as an HPF.

    For woofers, it consists of a coil or inductor to act as an LPF.

    2nd and third order crossovers have a higher roll-off and require more components.

    The simplest system used by Rockford on some systems contains only an inline HPF on the tweeter.  The woofer really can't play high notes so sending it a full range signal doesn't do any damage.

    The Kenwood system simply uses a coil attached to the woofer and a capacitor in-line with the tweeter.

    The crossover module might just be a coil and a capacitor in a plastic box, but it could also be higher order as well.  I'm not sure how important this is, though.  It is also likely to be higher quality, but I can't say that for certain either.

    Hope This Helps!!!

    Anyone else have suggestions?

    2002 Ford Focus JVC KD-A815 Sony CDX-GT410u Sony XT-100HD HD Tuner Stock speakers, no amp, no subs

  • So the tweeters look relatively easy to replace, I'll just have to find a way to affix the new tweeters to the existing tweeter grilles. Also, I'm looking at these kickers for the front: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_206DS652/Kicker-DS65-2.html?search=kicker+11ds652&avf=N#details-tab

    Crutchfield says that they will not fit and that they are 6 3/4, not 6 1/2, but I saw them in Fry's and I checked the kicker website and both say 6 1/2 so crutchfield must have wrong info there. Is there any other reason these would not fit? Depth wise or anything? They look like pretty nice speakers and they would give me brand matching for front and rear. The guy in frys said existing factory hardware if there is a crossover module or anything would be mounted in the door panel behind the speaker, so I'm still planning on doing some exploring to see how everything is wired up there.

     

    Side note, I found them on amazon for $77, which is a bargain, but there are less than 20 left. Are these good speakers? They are 6.5's so I know they will fit diameter wise, but what about depth? I will probably be buying two pairs of wiring harness adapters to wire all of these up as well.



    [edited by: MusicMan374 at 5:11 PM (GMT -5) on Sun, Feb 26 2012]
  • 2000 Honda Accord wiring info

    the only thing i have found to be reliable enough to go on without checking a dozen sites is the info created by CF's research dept here (only once have i found it incorrect, and done 100's if not over a thousand installs), so gonna base off of their info cuz no site is more reliable. 

    seems to me the only way the tweeters could be wired is in parallel with the front door with a filter cap (well, not the only way, but i don't see an amp so that's about it amongst options that make sense... i suppose they could be wired in parallel with the rear speakers, but that would mean longer wiring so i doubt Honda would do it). 

    the tweeter wire colors are not specified, so you'll still have to hunt them down but it certainly helps to know what the woofer wiring colors are... if you're lucky they will be the same.

    if not, probably easier to just run your own wiring, tho.  for an SQ set-up, you'd want your tweets mounted no further than 6 inches from your mid-bass.  this creates a more convincing stereo effect (where the sound seems to come from the center) anyway, so maybe just forget the stock tweeters and look at mounting your component system tweets near the mid-range instead.  it's an option, and probably superior to critical listeners, but you don't have to.  odds are if you tap into the wires leaving the stock HU from the amp, they will feed both your up-front tweets and mids equally, with the factory cap/bass blocker.  that doesn't appeal to me with an amped system, however.  you have no idea what the factory tweeter cap is actually rated for or how close it is to the rating of the aftermarket tweeter's cap.

    sorry i can't be more helpful! specific.

    actually, i can be more helpful, just need a bit more info.  as an installer, what i would do is cut the wiring to the stock tweets and mount the aftermarket tweets near the mid-range for superior staging, with the passive crossover mounted inside the door (or near the amp, which requires an additional run of wires and not really beneficial).  it's usually more accurate that way (vehicle acoustics may make dash mounting or sail panel mounting more superior, but not often) and you don't have to worry about any of the following:

    "where is the factory filter cap?  what is the factory filter cap's rating? what color wires do i tap into for the factory tweeter location?"

    these questions all become moot points bcuz you have by-passed all of it by simply mounting the tweet and passive crossover in the door.

     

     

     

     



    [edited by: J Ro at 8:07 PM (GMT -5) on Sun, Feb 26 2012]
  • TigerHeli
    I don't know of ANY aftermarket component speakers that use inline crossovers as opposed to modules.  (I stand corrected - Kenwood does, Rockford does also).

    i was baffled by this statement, and too embarassed to ask... but what is a module?  i'm guessing it's an external passive crossover network, but you know what they say about assumptions... they make an A out of U and Me!

    edit: oh crap i used the term wrong!  it's "assume" not assumption... i'm wearing a big donkey head as a face right now!  clever analogies of my own will forever become less worthwhile!  that sux!



    [edited by: J Ro at 9:23 PM (GMT -5) on Sun, Feb 26 2012] edit: oh crap i used the term wrong! it's "assume" not assumption... i'm wearing a big donkey head as a face right now! clever analogies of my own will forever become less worthwhile! that sux!
  • Given the definition and context in which TigerHeli used it, I'd have to say he's referring to external crossover networks. 

    That said, I've noticed many manufacturers moving away from larger external crossovers. Even Alpine and Pioneer have models without external crossovers.

     

  • MusicMan374
    would give me brand matching for front and rear

    The link in 1 of my above posts has 2 different sets of Kicker components that should fit your vehicle.

     

    GLH Geeked

  • Correct - when I said "modules", I was referring to external networks - like the silver "boxes" in the upper left of the photo above.  (As opposed to coils (inductors) mounted on the woofer itself or capacitors (bass blockers) wired inline or mounted on the tweeters).

    I A**-U-ME'd Devil the original poster was using the term this way as well.



    [edited by: TigerHeli at 9:28 AM (GMT -5) on Mon, Feb 27 2012]

    2002 Ford Focus JVC KD-A815 Sony CDX-GT410u Sony XT-100HD HD Tuner Stock speakers, no amp, no subs

  • TigerHeli
    Correct - when I said "modules", I was referring to external networks

    thanks for clarifying.  maybe it's a regional thing, just never heard the term "modules" applied to "external passive crossover networks."  does seem a helluva lot simpler!

  • Okay, so I checked out those kickers, and on the kicker website, it says the DS6.2 and the KS6.2 are 6 inch speakers. Why is crutchfield saying 6 and a half for ones kicker claims is 6 and 6 3/4 for ones kicker claims is 6.5? I don't understand that. I do like the DS 6.2's, but my decision will come down to the size of my current tweeters and what will fit. How should I go about mounting the crossover box? I've never actually seen one so I don't know how they are secured. Are they screwed in? Or attached with some sort of adhesive? The only concern I have is if I ever wanted to change the dB level of the tweeters, I would have to take off the door panel. So I guess I just have to get it right when I install it and do further adjustments with the head unit?

  • MusicMan374
    I checked out those kickers, and on the kicker website, it says the DS6.2 and the KS6.2 are 6 inch speakers. Why is crutchfield saying 6 and a half for ones kicker claims is 6 and 6 3/4 for ones kicker claims is 6.5? I don't understand that.

    you may have read some info wrong (kicker doesn't currently make a 6" anything).  they're all 6.5, and in some circumstances (depending on vehicle) 6.75" is possible.

    MusicMan374
    my decision will come down to the size of my current tweeters and what will fit.

    tweeters are so tiny it should be easy to adapt the vehicle to make them fit pretty much anywhere,  but i understand if you're not willing to do that.  if you aren't familiar with cutting a hole at all, this is probably too big a project for you and you should just go with what fits. 

    MusicMan374
    How should I go about mounting the crossover box?

    i like to use spare sound deadening inside a door, but passive crossovers are solid-state devices and hence aren't particularly sensitive to vibration so you can pretty much mount them anywhere.  you can screw them down or just use the included velcro tabs (if they came with them...) or buy some cheap Velcro tabs of your own or use friction tape... geez... there are so many options!  as long as you mount the x-overs in a way that won't stress the connections, it will work!

    MusicMan374
    The only concern I have is if I ever wanted to change the dB level of the tweeters, I would have to take off the door panel. So I guess I just have to get it right when I install it and do further adjustments with the head unit?

    i would assume you set the level before closing up the door panel, but if not, yeah you can make final adjustments from the HU.  no doubt you'll be playing with those settings anyway.

     

  • http://www.kicker.com/ds_series

    If click component and click the 6.2 speakers it says 6 inches, but according to the reviews on crutchfield, they seem to work perfectly in 6.5 openings, so maybe you're right and kicker posted some other type of diameter measurement. I'll take your advice and trust crutchfield's research. I suppose then my next step is to take off my door panel and see how everything is wired up. If it really turns out that the way things are wired now will make it too confusing to use existing wiring I will buy some shrink tubing and splice the factory wires from the head unit to the wires that come with the speakers, but I'll just have to go exploring to determine that decision. Velcro holds sturdily enough even going over bumps and such? I'm sure I'll figure it out. Thank you for all of the advice. This saturday I'll figure out the wiring and such and post back if I have any other questions. One last thing, what is the best way to run new wiring if that is necessary? I believe these kickers come with wires already attached to them, which is good because I don't have a soldering gun. I assume I can just strip the factory wiring coming out of the head unit wiring harness and the wire from the new speakers and just twist them around each other and shrink some tubing over it? I don't have a crimping tool or anything either, so if I have to modify the wiring it will be very amateur solutions.