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I have 1996 lexus ES300, there isnt any noise with my OEM headunit,
after i install the pioneer AVH-P2400BT, there are hissing noise coming
out from the speakers after I started the engine, when i accelerate the
noise gets louder. Almost sounds like a cd changer or valve motor type
of noise. there is no noise when I put my car in ACC. i use
RCA cable for the front and rear speakers.. does anyone know what is the problem and how to fix it. thx
sounds like alternator whine. so you rev the motor and the 'pitch' of the background noise becomes a higher frequency? this issue is common, and may be more specific to Pioneer HU's, but it is fairly common across the board. Pioneer HU's use a pico-fuse for the output stage on the pre-amps that is especially susceptible to blowing, and once it blows, you will get constant noise. i've experienced this myself (and i'm a pro, i think, but since joining this forum i've learned this problem is wide-spread amongst multiple Pioneer HU's). blowing the fuse involves something as simple as a hot-swap (removing and re-inserting the RCA's without disconnecting the battery negative, which is not an MECP accepted practice and expressly discouraged in Pioneer manuals, but everyone does it).
there is no easy way to replace the fuse (the HU is essentially sealed, so you really can't mess with the guts of it without special tools that i don't own, so i don't even know what they might be... these HU's are assembled by robots, not ppl, so finding the right tool may be impossible).
if this issue is present on the speaker-level outputs, i don't know what might be causing it. the known Pioneer issue only affects pre-amp outputs, as far as i know (and have observed personally). the other cause of alternator whine is running your RCA's near a power line, but again, that only holds water with the pre-amp (or low-voltage signal, or amp-level inputs, or maybe a half-dozen more terms), not the speaker-level outputs.
i made most of these suggestions thinking you had an amp... is that the case?
I didn't read the info correctly (and the initial post was later edited).
Mechanical clicking noise from the speakers is what I posted answers for.
High-pitched (or medium pitched) whine only when the engine is running and goes up in pitch and volume with RPM is almost certainly alternator whine.
J Roas simple as a hot-swap (removing and re-inserting the RCA's without disconnecting the battery negative
J Ro - I'm not up on MECP. I assumed hot-swap referred to removing and re-inserting RCA's with the HU powered on, and disconnecting them with the HU turned off but the ground still connected was okay. Taking your word that you are correct - wouldn't it be acceptable to unplug the power connector at the radio before unplugging the RCA's (pretty inconvenient either way, though).
I'm not sure I'd assume it's the pico fuse and not the routing of the RCA's (or other issues, but ...)
J Rothere is no easy way to replace the fuse ... so finding the right tool may be impossible
Pico-fuse info. It's far from impossible, the DIYMA thread explains how to do it. However, you have to be comfortable soldering and desoldering very small components from a PCB (without overheating the traces) and you probably have to remove the PCB to do it. However, I think a Ground Loop Isolator will fix it, and there is a *** solution that has worked for some people - can't too much hurt to try it.
J Roif this issue is present on the speaker-level outputs,
You can pick up alternator whine on the speaker-level outputs too, but it's less common and a different problem. I had a 1979 Mustang and either a JVC or Sanyo stereo and it had BAD alternator whine on the speaker outputs. In the mid-1980's, Pioneer sold a "Ford alternator whine filter" - basically a capacitor that went between the alternator B+ terminal and ground, but the more common solution now is a power line filter on the yellow wire into the radio.
J Roi made most of these suggestions thinking you had an amp... is that the case?
If he is using RCA's, it's fairly safe to assume he has an amp, but it might be the OEM amp. I don't know for sure that the speakers are 4-ohm, but if so, it would probably provide better sound to disconnect the dash tweeters and bypass the amp, running the remaining speakers directly off the head unit, and it might eliminate the noise also.
If you bought from Crutchfield, you should contact their technical support also.
Hope This Helps!!!
Anyone else have suggestions?
2002 Ford Focus JVC KD-A815 Sony CDX-GT410u Sony XT-100HD HD Tuner Stock
speakers, no amp, no subs
What kind of car? Did you use a wiring harness adapter?
Three things come to mind:
I have 1996 lexus ES300, there isnt any noise with my OEM headunit, after i install the pioneer AVH-P2400BT, there are hissing noise coming out from the speakers after I started the engine, when i accelerate the noise gets louder. there is no noise when I put my car in ACC. i use RCA cable for the front and rear speakers.
is my advice that bad? you had a correction for nearly every point... geez... i really need to step up my game when i venture out of the sub forum! you really gave me the business here... WAH!
J Rois my advice that bad? you had a correction for nearly every point...
Wouldn't say your advice was bad, and I wouldn't say I had a "correction" for every point ...
J Royou really gave me the business here
I don't see it (or didn't intend it) that way, and I've been called out by you (and rightly so) when I made stupid comments in the forum as well.
TigerHeliHot Swap - Honest question - Can't find good info on this.
i thought the issue with the pico-fuse was the amp attempting to ground through the radio, whether it was playing or not.
"Hot-swapping" generally refers to computers. It means swapping out components or connections without shutting down the system. So I think you're OK using it in this context. It made perfect sense to me.
HU are computers, after all.
i've heard of ancient mechanical objects referred to as "computers," so the term "computer" is fairly wide-spread and not particularly well-understood. seems like anything that is programmable is a computer! the Antikythera mechanism comes to mind, but surely there are better examples. i don't believe a "computer" is a commonly accepted term for a modern HU, but my link supports your statement (as usual).
i've always thought of "hot-swapping" to mean making any electrical connection without the battery ground disconnected, but i could definitely be wrong here. google is not my friend here... too many returns that often conflict.
Actually, prior to Alan Turing, the term "computer" typically referred to a human being who did computations.
What an enigma.
are we thread-jacking again?
Trying to stay on topic ...
Alex W"Hot-swapping" generally refers to computers.
In this case, Alex is referring to PC's or (Personal Computers) - although as J Ro said, the mechanism or the Norton Bombsight in WWII were referred to as analog computers.
Alex WIt means swapping out components or connections without shutting down the system.
(And probably more specifically, components that were NOT designed for this purpose. i.e. USB and firewire devices were DESIGNED to allow for hot-swapping. PS/2 keyboards/mice, VGA video monitors, serial port connections, etc. were NOT, but you could usually get away with it.)
Based on that - I think my definition is closer - there was never a requirement to unplug the PC before swapping keyboards, for example.
As far as specifically Pioneer - I actually don't really see a warning against hot-swapping RCA's in their instructions. I've read it on various forums and I don't think anyone ever questioned what it means. It makes sense to me, though, that if the HU is on, there is a small amount of current through the RCA's. If you accidentally short the pin to the shield of the RCA, you will cause a short in the HU - usually across a 1-ohm resistor and nothing much happens unless you hold the RCA shorted or the volume is all the way up. But since Pioneer uses a pico-fuse, it is much easier to blow the fuse and damage the HU.
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