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Hey guys and girls, im new and lately been obsessed about upgrading my new cars system.(05 honda accord lx) Im only 19 so thats a big step to make, anyways ive been spending away and i think im nearly complete. My equipment includes 2 Blaupunkt Vw1200, 2 California Ap2000 amps, Kicker 0/1 gauge dual amp kit, 25 ft. 12 gauge speaker wire, Power acoustik 6.0 farad cap, 2 zeronoise 5.0 19.4 ft rca cables, q logic dual 12" sealed type 1 box and an extra 2 4ft pieces of 4 gauge power and ground wiring. Im a beginner and i need tips on installing all my equipment. whether it be not running all wires on one side of the car to charging my capacitor. Any and all help is appreciated. THANKS!!!! I KNOW ITS LONG BUT I NEED SOME HELP PLEASE.
Disconnect the negative battery terminal. First priority.
Well first you should know not to run your patch cables along side your power cables, this can induce noise. If you must cross a patch and power cable do it at a 90 degree angle. Choose a well ventilated area for your amplifiers and measure out the length of wire, this will give you a good estimate on the length of cable you need. If your subs are mounted in a box already and wired, good for you, if not, then be sure to wire them to match the ohms at the amplifier. Whether it be wiring them series or parallel. Its always a good idea to run your main power wire on the side of the car that your battery is on, this will give you the shortest amount of wire that you will need and decrease the resistance in the wire. On the other side, run your patch cables, this will reduce your chances of induces motor noise. Once your power wire is ran to the appropriate place, tap into your distribution block. This should have came with your amp kit. Run one 4 gauge to one amp and vice versa. If you have a space left on the distribution block, tape one power wire over to your cap. Your remote wire can run along side your patch cables for ease of installation. Make sure all cables are in a secure place that wont allow friction and is free of moving parts. Its always a good idea to run the power wire inside the firewall through a gromet. These are inexpensive and limit the chance that the power wire will rub causing a hole in the sheath and burning your car up. Some amp kits (dealing with multiple amps) have a distribution block for the ground also. Street wires makes a nifty lil block that has both power and ground distribution. None the less, ground everything to the same place. A good solid ground, NO LONGER THAN 18 INCHES. You can have longer but you run the risk of inducing noise. You can ground to a bolt, such as the seat mounting bolt, which connects to the frame, or a seat belt bolt, or you can drill and and make your own. If you decide to make your own, use a fine grit piece of sand paper to strip away the paint for a definate ground. The ground is the most important part of any install. Now you should have almost everything ran and hooked up. Under the hood, we are ready to hook up the main power wire. Connect the wire going to your distribution block to the fuse holder if not already done. DO NOT INSERT THE FUSE..... yet. Once you have clearance of the hood, moving parts and everything is mounted down, unhook the power wire from the battery. Insert the fuse, connect the negative battery cable to the terminal. If you must charge your capacitor now is the time. There is an illustration of this in the owners manual, follow it like a bible. Once this is done, connect the cable to the battery post and vioala. Your done. Set your gains if you can or you can take it to an install shop and they will do this with a scope ensuring the settings for you.
Nope, that should pretty much cover all of the things that you will need to acomplish. The only thing that I will add is: Please take your time during the install to do everything properly. A clean looking installation will be much more rewarding than something that is just thrown at the car. The use of wire loom (the black stuff for me please!) in the engine bay will help conceal most of the power wire and running cabling underneath the carpet in the trunk area goes a long way.
If this is your first install - plan to spend the whole day in the garage. And don't forget to have a second car handy in case you need to run to the hardware store for any last minute tools you might need to do the job.
Currently working on my MBA program. I hope to return sometime in December 2010.
First off, the extra holes in the cap can be used for smaller gauge wire, or it can be used in case you wanted to use your cap as a distribution block. Is this am a 4 channel amp? If not then use line 1, if so then use whatever input that your going to run your speakers on. On the bridging, if your speakers (all together) match up to be four ohms, most likely then you can bridge if the wiring allows, if you already know this stuff then disregard that last lil piece. The cap should have came with a charging resistor. All you have to do is put this in line of your power wire and your battery post... so connect the one side to the power wire, the other to the battery post, it usually takes about 30 seconds or it may have an indicator light suggesting with the cap is ready to go, when its charged just hook up the power wire to the batter and thats taken care of. If your still unsure of yourself its never a bad idea to take it to a professional. You put all this money into your investment theres no sense in risking ruining any of your equipment, no shame in that. Often times when wires don't fit exactly you just have to be calm, twist the wires just right and kinda wiggle em in. If there is completely two different gauges then you can get a down adapter, or you opt for different size wire. Alot of times it just takes a lil manipulation. Like the other guy said, just be patient with it and it will all pan out.
A cap of that size will lose its entire charge in about a day.
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