Subwoofer is Making LOUD humming and Bass is hitting HARD even with power off and or volume at 0

I'd make'em fix it.

But for the sake of information - either door, or just the drivers door?

[edited by: Alex W at 7:09 PM (GMT -5) on Sun, Feb 19 2012]

drivers door although never tried the passengers door

I think there was another thread about this, but it was related to a defective Metra adapter in a GM with Onstar.

The hum and thumps is most likely a ground loop.

It also MIGHT be related to the active noise cancellation system in the Honda.

The noise stopping when the door is opened is probably related to retained accessory power.

I would let the shop fix it for you - but this gives them some hints to point them in the right direction.

Hope This Helps!!!

Anyone else have suggestions?

Factory Head Unit?

http://community.crutchfield.com/forums/p/5177/22670.aspx

Anyone else have suggestions?

chester copperpot

anyone have an idea on how much Square ft of dynomat ill need to do the inside of my car?

if the rattling is severe, you may need about 20 square foot (it doesn't have to skin every panel to be effective).  blanketing the entire vehicle with deadener is not really necessary.  the floor pan probably already has some form of insulation under the carpeting, so better to focus on the 2 doors and you'd probably have some leftover for problem areas.

chester copperpot

Also should i get a 3 farad cap for this system or should i get another battery instead.

i'd go for a battery, but would have to weigh how likely the stock battery is to die to make a solid judgment.  whenever the vehicle is running, the alternator is the source of power.  you could add 10 batteries, but the voltage will still drop while playing music that overcomes the alternator.  a cap can (probably) fix minor transient light dimming, but it is not a source of power.  the cap only serves to stabilize voltage, and a really big cap ends up in a charging cycle the majority of the time.  additionally, you will need to add a fuse whenever you add a stiffening capacitor or battery.  that can add to the cost, making them less appealing. 

best bet is just upgrade the alternator, if necessary.  no reason to replace a starter battery unless it's kinda old.  5+ years is the expected life for lead-acid batts, so your 2009 batt should have plenty life in it as long as you don't completely drain it at some point.  ever leave the headlights on and find the battery is dead?  a jump can get it going again, but the battery is permanently damaged.  it will never meet spec again.

i was told by the car audio place that the best bet was to get a High Output Alternator and a 1 farad cap wouldnt hurt...Now i have looked everywhere for one for my car (2009 honda accord coupe EX-L V6 w/NAVI ). Anyone know of a place that has them(link to website would be more than helpful! THANKS!) Also im looking to replace my factory navigation system and get a Kenwood DNX6190HD head unit, now my question is. Where can i find a new mounting kit for my dash? ive looked EVERYWHERE and cant seem to find one ?> anyone know of a site?

being rather heavy and bulky, i've found it is usually most cost-effective (and a guaranteed perfect fit) to have stock alternators re-wound locally.  if that's an option for you, you could save a substantial amount of money and time.

pretty big fan of iraggi alts, if you'd prefer complete replacement of the stock alt compared to re-winding it. 

if that's the case, email   dominick "@" tds.net *    and give him all the relevant info (make, model, year, system power). i don't know of anyone else who can help you better for a (relatively... this is not cheap stuff!) decent price.  but he won't gouge you on s+h charges like most others and iraggi alts are pretty good.  maybe not the absolute best, but way more affordable compared to something like a big company like Stinger has available.

*edited email to thwart spamming, cuz i know this guy hates it.  just remove the spaces and quotes to prove you are not a spam bot for the direct address)

J Ro

pretty big fan of iraggi alts, if you'd prefer complete replacement of the stock alt compared to re-winding it. 

if that's the case, email   dominick "@" tds.net *    and give him all the relevant info (make, model, year, system power). i don't know of anyone else who can help you better for a (relatively... this is not cheap stuff!) decent price.  but he won't gouge you on s+h charges like most others and iraggi alts are pretty good.  maybe not the absolute best, but way more affordable compared to something like a big company like Stinger has available.

The store he used to have on Ebay has been closed but I see Dominick is still active on the SMD forums.

 

Ohio Generator=> http://www.ohiogen.com/index.html

MechMan=>http://mechman.com/

Maniac Electric=>http://www.maniacelectricmotors.com/

 

Dash Kits are out there.

Do you have the manual or the electronic dual zone climate controls?

Do you have the gray or tan (taupe) interior?

Will post info after you reply ...

Crutchfield carries Scosche kits for your car:

Dual Climate Controls

Manual Climate Controls

Select the correct color from the drop-down - they are 50% off if you buy the head unit from Crutchfield

Metra also sells adapters:

99-7874 - manual gray
99-7874T - Manual Taupe
99-7875 - Dual gray
99-7875T - Dual Taupe

Will shoot you a conversation message also.

Hope This Helps!!!

Anyone else have suggestions?

[edited by: TigerHeli at 2:16 PM (GMT -5) on Fri, Feb 24 2012]

i believe its dualzone climate controls and it is gray.

unfortunately both of those kits wont work, My accord has navi and those 2 kits are for non-navigation accords.

this is what my dash looks like.....heres a couple pics...

http://0.tqn.com/d/cars/1/0/T/z/1/jf_09accord_DriversPOVDash.jpg

http://static.cargurus.com/images/site/2008/09/18/13/43/2009_honda_accord_coupe-pic-2901.jpeg

Im still in the hunt for a dash kit it looks like.

Anyone else know of any sites with dash kits for 2009 honda accord coupe v6 w/navi

 

I don't know of anybody that makes a kit for the Accords with Navi - that said ...

Grrrrr - it could ALMOST be done pretty simply - stay with me here:

Here's the picture you posted:

Here's the dual-climate dash without navi from here:

Here's the Dual control with a DDIN HU installed:

I think the reason nobody makes a kit for your car is b/c the map guide button is right in the middle of the area where the new radio would go.  Not a big deal for you as the new radio will handle navigation also - you would just have the screen down lower and would have a non-functioning display in the center (where you could put a picture of your wife or girlfriend (but preferably not both) or a pet or ...)

The bigger problem that they could work around but haven't - is that the HVAC controls are different shaped and in different positions.

I have three suggestions, but two of them will be super-expensive and the third option might not work:

• A really good custom shop should be able to install the new HU in place of the current Navi screen - you would have non-working radio controls below - but they might be able to fiberglass that over.  I'm not sure if the screen is the same size as a D-DIN or how much depth is behind it, but anything can be done for enough money if you want to badly enough.
• Simpler and possibly better option - it looks like to me, you could get the dash kit above - the area for the HVAC controls on your car are not used on the kit, so you could make cut-outs for them and mount them in the existing locations and the shop could then glass over the existing control cutouts in the dash kit.  (But I don't know how your HVAC works - it's possible the Menu/Cancel and rotary knob are used with it, so those would have to be relocated as well - still looks workable, but more complicated).
• Easiest solution - but might not work - you might be able to pick up the HVAC controls from a dual HVAC Accord from a junkyard and plug them in and then use the dash kit above.  In the old days, those were mechanical switches and that would be no problem.  On more modern cars, often the car BCC has to be re-flashed to work with the other cluster, which sometimes disables other options.  To give you an idea of why it might not work - see this thread.  If you don't want to read the entire thread, the base 2010 Fusion and 2010 Focus use the same HVAC control layout and HVAC display panel, but the Focus has an Outside Air Temperature display - to get the OAT working in the Fusion, you not only need the sensor and the Focus switches, but the original fusion switches also have to stay in the car and be connected to power, gnd, Can HI and Can Lo, and the original switches can't ever be activated, or they have to be disconnected and then reconnected.  I'm not saying the Honda is this complicated, but it might be.

Hope This Helps!!!

Anyone else have suggestions?

[edited by: TigerHeli at 4:39 PM (GMT -5) on Fri, Feb 24 2012]