Amplifier is a JBL CS60.4-Z. I don't know if I should go 8 AWG or 4 AWG I assume 8 AWG is perfectly fine, but I just want to be sure. Since I don't need RCA's, I was thinking of getting this kit:
StreetWires Power Stream PSKA8R.html?tp=2919 but the fuse seems to small. Is it enough to work, or should I get his one:
EFX 8 gauge Amplifier Wiring Kit.html?tp=2919
I'm not sure the capabilities of the amp at hand. they will be powering 2 (possibly 4) speakers at 35 watts RMS.
1994 Lincoln Town Car, Signature Series, Pioneer DEH-1900MP, JL Audio TR570-CXi's, JL Audio C2-690tx's, Kenwood KAC-8204D, Kenwood KFC -W3011's.
1993 GMC Sierra K1500 SLE, Pioneer DEH-3100UB, Boston Acoustics all around.
According the specs, the maximum RMS is 320 watt (80 watts x 2 @ 2-ohms). So:
320 watts / 13.8 volts = 23.2 amps.
This guide should be adequate:
http://www.crutchfield.com/learn/learningcenter/car/cable_gauge_chart.html
According to the guide:
less than 4 feet, use 12 gauge wire
between 4 and 16 feet, use 10 gauge
greater than 16 feet, use 8
You would be better off with 4 gauge or larger if you ever decide to upgrade the amplifier.
1992 Chevrolet pickup; Jensen VM9412 HU; Alpine 4x6 2-way dash speakers x 2; Pyle Blue Label 4x6 3-way rear speakers x 2; Pyle Blue Label 12" subs x 2; Crunch GVP700.2 "Ground Pounder" subwoofer amplifier; Custom Subwoofer box
I would go with 4 gauge wiring if the amp will accept it. You need a 60 amp inline fuse as close to the battery as possible, for that amp alone.
The amp is 60 watts x 4 RMS @ a 4 ohm load, 80 watts x 4 RMS @ a 2 ohm load.
If your speakers are 35 watts RMS, you need different speakers or a different amp, unless you are powering the speakers with the headunit and this amp is for subs.
Well, moderater TigerHeli recommended it, as well as a few others with similar ratings, and it would be if I upgraded the speakers later. If you have any recommendations, I'd certainly be willing to consider them.
He did. Right here:
http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/CompareTo.aspx?g=120&cc=01&compareItems=01|115CS604&compareItems=01|113KAC6404&compareItems=01|500MRPF300&compareItems=01|575R3004
I'd recommend something like this:
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113KAC6404/Kenwood-KAC-6404.html?tp=115
Here's a good comparison chart:
http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/CompareTo.aspx?g=120&cc=01&compareItems=01|500KTP445&compareItems=01|113KAC6404&compareItems=01|20608DX204&compareItems=01|236TN4004
Those are all 4 channel and 45 watts RMS or less.
And heres a comparison of two channel amps:
http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/CompareTo.aspx?g=120&cc=01&compareItems=01|236TN2002&compareItems=01|20608DX102
The MTX Terminator TN200 2.html?tp=115 seems to be a winner as well, because, lets face it... the back trim panels were such a PITA to remove the first time, especially since I couldn't get the Torx screw to come loose (the one holding the reel to the floor, not the one holding the strap to the cab - managed to snap my torx bit in half) that once said speakers are installed, and wired up, they won't be coming back out.
My truck doesn't have screws holding the back trim in place, it has metal clips.
With mine, you have the one Torx bolt that holds seat belt to the cab, then there are 3 Phillips screws near the bottom that you need to take out, then, in order to take the thing off, you have to get the seatbelt reel assembly out, by removing another T50 Torx bolt so you could access the door sill panel, and remove the screw by the rear of the cab, which did NOT move, so I couldn't access that last bolt. Then, the side trim panels, and the top trim panel is somehow joined in some retarded way, which I could not get loose, they fit like a jigsaw...I managed to bust my top trim panel doing that, which pissed me off a LOT. How in the WORLD am I supposed to disconnect them without breaking them??? It's ridiculous.
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Mine just has the two Torx bolts holding the seat belt in place. It did have the three Phillips screws, but I remove 1 on each side so I could remove it without having to take up the seat belt. After that, it all pops out. I know your dilemma about the side and top trim pieces. What you need to do is take the rear pillar trim pieces and pull the bottom out first. In order to do so, you need to remove the box behind the seat, otherwise it won't come out. The top piece is held in place by two interlocking "teeth" on both pieces. It's impossible to get out without removing the behind the seat box.
Forgot to mention, you also have to pull the seats out.
So here's what you do.
Seats need to come out. Then the behind the seat box (along with the jack and accessories). Then the seat belts. The seat belts are the hardest because they're held in by a Loctite type glue (from the factory, of all things). (So are the seats). Then pull the bottom of the trim piece until you get it as far towards the center of the vehicle as you can. Then very carefully pry the top of it out of the trim piece. If you want to remove the top trim piece, then there are two screws on each side. The light is a two piece fixture that has to be carefully pulled through the trim piece (it's seperate and attached by several wires to the cab).
It's impossibly hard to remove and not worth it.
I'm definitely going to do that when the amp comes in. I mean...It's obviously a T50 bolt that holds the seat belt reel to the floor, but they wouldn't budge. I mean....JEEEEEZ!
Is there a spot in the firewall on the pass. side for a power amp wire? I'm wondering where you mounted yours, and if you had to make a hole, or if one was already there.
And on that note, I hope my order is ok. I sent it in at around 5:15 yesterday, and they haven't shipped it yet. (Then again, maybe I'm spoiled, they always send a shipped conformation like 20 minutes after I send the order in ) :D
I drilled my own hole. I drilled a hole a few inches behind the passenger side rear seat bolt. There was a small half-box metal channel running down the outside of the passenger side frame rail. Not sure why it was there, but it helped. It ran right up to the wheel well, and from there I used heavy duty zip ties to run it along some lines that ran very close the the battery. I had to custom modify a battery top post clamp (Optima Yellow top batteries have not standard top post sizes). I had to drill it out. I grommeted the hole and used heavy duty zip ties every 2 inches to keep the wire in place. The reason I didn't run it through the firewall was I couldn't find a hole that was unused and couldn't find a place to drill one.
The original fuse holder I bought wouldn't fit anywhere under the hood near the battery, so I bought a smaller one. I still have to finish custom modifying it to strap to the battery (it won't fit anywhere else). What I need is a second battery and a bigger alternator (they are suprisingly hard to find and when you do find them, they are insanely expensive; in the neighborhood of 600 dollars).
Thanks for the info, I'll probably go that route then.
Should I upgrade my battery when I put the subs in? They will be getting 200 each RMS max, and 35 to each rear speaker, which is an easily capable load on the alternator, as it is 100 amp, IIRC. The battery, is a Delco Freedom one, no idea the CCA's, or anything, but it's a little battery. Probably 9"x7"x9" or so.
Continental batteries are the best.
You'll likely want a Deep Cycle battery. I have an optima yellow-top (which cost me $200). It's up to you, but a stock battery or one that is not a deep cycle won't last long under heavy drain, even if the engine is running while the stereo is playing.