This is how it looks now:
http://i34.tinypic.com/2rq1uz7.jpghttp://i35.tinypic.com/o72dg8.jpg
And this is how it should look:
http://i37.tinypic.com/2wmorhz.jpghttp://i37.tinypic.com/24bt3wy.jpg
How can I put it back (fix it)?
Thanks
Okay ....
I'm not sure how it was originally constructed, but you are going to have to take the panel that the sub is mounted to out and then reattach that to the box.
The best way to support it would probably be with some 1x2's below where the sub panel attaches, but you would want to screw those in from the outside and then screw the sub panel down to them from the front, which likely means removing and re-installing all the carpeting if you don't want the screws to show.
If it is still under warranty, I would look at that option first.
Hope This Helps!!!
Anyone else have suggestions?
2002 Ford Focus Sony CDX-GT410u Sony XT-100HD HD Tuner Stock speakers, no amp, no subs
If your screws had a small/fine thread, then you probably striped out the hole. MDF and particle board strips fairly easily, especially if you use screws with a fine thread or torque them too much.
02 BMW 330Ci, Alpine DVI-9965, Alpine MRA F350 5ch, Alpine MRP T220 + 2x Kicker 6x9 FreeAir, Kicker KX1200.1 + Alpine 12" Type-R, 2-Way Security, Keyless Entry, Remote Start
Wow! That's a horribly built box.
What TigerHeli suggested would be a good way. Pulling the carpet back out of the way shouldn't be a problem. I'm sure it's "glued" down with the same quality as the rest of the construction.
2005 Dodge Ram Quad Cab DC Sound Labs Soundstream Blow-through See it here http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/index.php?showtopic=34090
Ok,thanks guys for the sugestions and sorry for the late reply(new baby girl is keeping us extra bussy). Ok first of all I went ahead and ordered a new sub/box cause I cant really be with out my Bass in my car(got used to having a Sub). Its something cheap just for a substitue for the time being. But to my surprise it is performing way better than that pice of $#%^ MA sub/box so Im really happy that I bought a new one. I just hope nothing bad happens to it specific to the enclosure/box like what happened to the MA one.
Anyway... Tiger I did try to contact MA but it is extremely dificult,belive me. First they were down(the web site)for a whole lot of time and when I finally get a hold of them its extremely dificult to have a timely conversation with them. Ok,when i finally talk with them and we finish our conversation we agreed that I need to send pictures of what the Sub/box looks like,you know they wanted to see what I needed help/souport/warranty with. So Im ok with that, I take the pictures and sent it to MA via email. And this is the only email I got back from them:
Hello Andy,
It looks like there was something pushing the subwoofer in. that is what made the face of the woofer collapse.
Ofcourse I was really p155ed because nothing like what hes sugesting happened. I even replied to their email(wish I could show it here but I dont know if some peopple might think it is offensive... it dont have any bad words/cursing) and have sent more emails to them because they dont answer to my emails...
So thats whats going on.
So I guess Im gonna have to take matters on my own hands as planned... Tiger I went today to the store and got me a electric drill/screw driver to fix the sub/box my self. The only thing I need to know is about the right screws for the job(Im not really carpintery inclined at all). The panel that the sub is mounted to(and all wood parts/panels) is 3/4" thick. Do you still think 1x2s screws are good? And also,I assume 1x2 means 1* wide by 2" long? Not sure about the 1* and Im pretty sure I would want like flat heads,right? *EDIT* well if is not too much to ask if anybody can sent me/post a picture of what type of screws I need. Sorry like I said dont know much about working w wood... theres like a million screws and I know theres the right one for each job.
Well as soon as some one clarify that to me I can go and put this sub/box back together. Thanks in advance.
OK. First of all....That is the worst customer service I've ever heard of. This guy obviously doesn't even know their own product line if he can't tell that the dust cap on that sub is supposed to be inverted. Collapsed? What a joke.
Now on to your questions. What TigerHeli was talking about was puting a 1x2" piece of wood on the inside of the box to give you something to re-attach the face to. See the red line in picture.
Glue and screw the piece along this line. then you can glue and screw the original face plate right to this new "frame".
As far as screws. They are just to pull the wood tight until the glue sets up so all you need is sheet rock screws. 1 1/2" long would be fine.
Ok,I just finished puting it back together... Sadly I went outside to get some screws/fasteners before I saw your post showing me what type of screws I needed and the guy at the hardware store sold me some difrents one. I managed to put it back togeteher but I noticed that the screws didnt stop turning as I wanted them to be to make sure it was really tight. Now Im not so sure if I can test the sub/box.
Any sugestions or reason why they dodnt stop turning? Wrong screws? Had to keep turning the screws?
Ha ha ha,you nailed it! Yes the screws I got have a really fine thread.
"MDF and particle board strips fairly easily, especially if you use screws with a fine thread or torque them too much."
I wich I knew all this before using the ones I got at the hardware store : (
Well anything I can do now to fix the fix?
You can fill the striped holes with silicone or wood glue, and relocate the screws, but at this point in time, you might want to think about giving the box up as a lost cause haha.
Well ninja the truth is that I went downstairs to test it and the sub/box sounds better than ever. I guess I kept listening to it broken like that for a long time and now that it is sealed is sounding the way it was meant to sound. So not feeding the garbage can with it. it was a lost cause but not any more.
Now about fixing the fix,I was thinking how about taking out these screws and puting in thicker screws in the existing holes? Like the ones that namosh posted?
Depending on the size of the old (and new) screws, you might be able to get away with that. I would put some silicone in the holes, then put in the new screws.
On a side note, please keep in mind that the screws should not be only structural support for your box; they should only be used to hold the box together while glue/silicone is setting. After you glue/screw in the 1x1" 1x2" stringers that were mentioned earlier, you should run a bead of glue around the edge of the box where you will reattach the front of the box. Once the glue is in place, you can set the box side back into place and set it with a few screws. After the glue dries, take the sub out (you should have done this already, but the pictures indicated otherwise) and run a bead of silicone along all internal seams to ensure an airtight enclosure. The combination of support stringers, glue, screws, and silicone should prevent your box from ever looking like those pictures again.
Also - there are two problems with wood screws that can make the screw keep turning -
The easiest way to tell what happened is to try to back the screw out by hand - if it is hard to turn and comes out normally, you stripped out the hole. If it just spins and doesn't rise out of the hole, or the head comes out without the rest of the screw - chances are you can just filler over the hole and leave it.
To avoid the last problem, I usually use brass or stainless screws, but they are a lot more expensive (or make larger pilot holes).