My infinity 611a is having problems. It powers up fine but It will clip like two or three times and then it goes into protect mode.
My set up is I have 4ga running from the battery to a distro block splitting a 4ga to the 611a and a 8ga to the alpine mrp f300.
I also don't know if this is related to the problem but the alpine overheats if the gains are past 1/2 way.
Sul:Stock head unit, I think it is something like .6V or something like that and it doesn't have pre outs it has a loc.
In that case the gain settings sound about right.
At this point in time, I would invest the $10 or so on a multimeter and probably start the search for a new sub.
02 BMW 330Ci, Alpine DVI-9965, Alpine MRA F350 5ch, Alpine MRP T220 + 2x Kicker 6x9 FreeAir, Kicker KX1200.1 + Alpine 12" Type-R, 2-Way Security, Keyless Entry, Remote Start
ok after further testing it seems that my sub is causing the amp to do this, because I hooked it up to a amp that I know worked, and it made that amp act the same way.
I hooked up my alpine swr-1242d in parallel at first and then hooked it up just to one voice coil to test if it was burned and it did the same thing.
It is looking like I need to get a new sub but I am still unsure why.
Also I hooked up a different working sub to my amp and it worked fine
Sul:I also don't know if this is related to the problem but the alpine overheats if the gains are past 1/2 way.
Sul:I hooked up my alpine swr-1242d in parallel at first and then hooked it up just to one voice coil to test if it was burned and it did the same thing.
You wired your sub down to 1ohm (2ohms in parallel with 2ohms), connected it to your amp, and cranked the gain up all the way? You could have easily fried your sub doing that. Disconnect the sub, and test the impedance/resistance of each voice coil separately. You should get ~1.6ohms each. If you get a number significantly lower than that it's almost certain that you melted the coils, and need a new sub.
Your Infinity amp is only stable at 2 or 4ohms, not 1ohm, so you are lucky you didn't end up breaking both your amp and sub! Even if your amp was stable (or at least functional) at 1ohm, the power output would be too much for that sub to handle, especially if you jacked up the gain and sent a clipped signal to the sub. For your situation, you should have wired the voice coils in series for a 4ohm load to your amp. You would have 456W RMS at that impedance, just about perfect for a sub rated at 500W RMS.
http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp?Q=1&I=42
Option one listed in the link above is the way I had it wired putting a 2 ohm load on the amp.
Also I ran it like this for months with no problems. It couldn't have put a 1 ohm load on the the amp. I may have put the wrong sub model number in but it is a 500w rms 4ohm dvc.
Sorry, I when I first looked at the sub, I saw 1222d, which is the dual 2ohm version.
Couple of things:
Did anything happen around the same time as the problems? (Car repairs, amp setting adjustments, fuse replacement, etc.)
Where are your gains/bass boost set? How often do you adjust them?
Have you disconnected the sub in question to test the impedance of the voice coils? Each should read about 4ohms (probably closer to 3.7 in actuality).
Have you tested all the power, grounds and fuses for continuity?
Have you tested the amp? You can usually get it bench tested for little or no money at a reputable mobile audio place.
No I didn't have any repairs at the time it stopped working or anything like that.
Gains were at 3/4 and bass boost was at 1/2, which is where they stayed
Don't have a multimeter to test all of the stuff you are talking about.
No I have not got it tested.
Here is what I know though:
Sub is bad on both voice coils and won't work on another amp which is good, and makes the amp clip and go into protect mode just as with my amp.
Amp is good because we hooked a good working sub up to it and it worked fine.
I think one way or another I blew the sub and need to get a new one.
Sul:Gains were at 3/4 and bass boost was at 1/2, which is where they stayed
What HU are you using? Even with low quality 2V preouts, that seems a little high. Did you hear any distortion or clipping form the subs? What type of enclosure was the sub in?
Regardless, it does sound like your sub is blown...
Stock head unit, I think it is something like .6V or something like that and it doesn't have pre outs it has a loc.
Didn't ever hear any distortion or clipping from the sub when it went out, but even still sometimes, for a split second or less it will hit a note just for a glimpse, but not from hitting a bump or anything so it shouldn't be a connection issue.
It is in a 1 cubic foot sealed box with 3/4 mdf. It is quite solid too.
I also have the signal cables for the sub running through the alpine four channel amp.
Ninja1283:At this point in time, I would invest the $10 or so on a multimeter and probably start the search for a new sub.
Agreed.
Hope This Helps!!!
2002 Ford Focus Sony CDX-GT410u Sony XT-100HD HD Tuner Stock speakers, no amp, no subs
What all would I test and what numbers am I looking for?
The first one is the most important to check, as it will help you determine whether or not your sub is blown or not. Additionally, you can set your amp gains correctly using a multimeter and this method that should help prevent any future sub problems (overpowering, clipping, etc.)
In the future, use a multimeter to test your equipment, as a multimeter will pretty much never hurt your equipment. (Whereas hooking one coil of your sub to your amp can blow your sub and fry your amp if done improperly.)