Amps are On, Sub is Weak!

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namosh replied on Fri, Nov 6 2009 8:37 PM

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Can you describe how you have the sub wired.

Can I assume you have tried adjusting the gain on the amp?

How about the sub level output setting in the head unit menu?

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J Ro replied on Fri, Nov 6 2009 8:49 PM

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With the power you're running your battery lead is probably inadequate at full power.  I'd say switch out the 100amp fuse at the battery with a 50amp to play things safe, but if you can change the cable to 4gauge that would be better. 

Not knowing the exact sub you have makes things tricky.  I've seen AudioBahn subs with unconventional impedances.  Dual 6 ohms and other non-standard stuff.  Maybe you've got it wired in series to play it safe?  Try running the coils in parallel. 

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MacSack replied on Fri, Nov 6 2009 8:59 PM

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Sure can... I have the sub wired just like this: http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/ca/learningcenter/car/subwoofer_wiring/1DVC_2-ohm_mono.jpg

See I don't know what this subs impendence is, but whether I wire it for 2 ohms or 4 ohms, it acts the same.  Also, I did have all of these components working harmoniously a week ago which lasted for 48 hours before my sub/amp got a mind of their own and decided to poop out on me. By "pooping out" I mean the sub would play strong at first, then it got weaker and slower until it would only try to produce bass when I cranked up the volume to about 80%.  And even then the bass would be way late and off time. 

I did adjust the gain on the amp.  I adjusted it like crazy, still nothing.

And I did also do the whole head unit thing and everything is to where it should be tip-top. I think this mysterious Audiobahn sub is causing more problems than good.

 I can get my hands on some of my friends components. ie. 2 ch amps and a DVC sub or two.  Should I try the switcheroo to see if maybe we can pinpoint the problem that way? or no??

Thanks again for your time and attention!  I really miss my music.

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MacSack replied on Fri, Nov 6 2009 9:11 PM

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Well, you were exactly right J Ro.  I did have the thing wired in series, I will try running them in parallel shortly. 

Is there anyway I can send/post a picture of the back end of this sub because I need an experienced opinion to let me know if this sub is even in the DVC category, I've never seen a sub with this configuration.  Basically-visualize two positive terminals from a regular speaker soldered together in the shape of an L.  There are two of these "L's" on this sub - one for pos and one for neg. There are 4 different large terminals.  Ever seen this??

Also, I will run 4gauge lead wire tomorrow.  When I do that I stick with the 100A fuse correct?

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J Ro replied on Sat, Nov 7 2009 9:23 AM

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A 100 amp fuse is fine with 4 gauge cable, but only bcuz you have the fused distribution block. 

If you can upload a pic of the sub to an online photo sharing website like photobucket  or even facebook, you can then paste a link to it(right click on the image and pick 'view image' to get the correct URL).  Hopefully running it parallel solves the problem, but if it's a dual 2ohm sub than you will probably trip a protection circuit on your DEI amp.  Be mindful of any indicator lights on the amp that might indicate over current, if it has any.  If that's not a built-in feature it may just run hot, which may not be obvious but is still a concern.

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J Ro replied on Sat, Nov 7 2009 8:09 PM

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Wow that looks like a nice paper weight.  You're right, it's not a DVC.  Those cheap looking slide terminals get bent out of shape and break so often that the other set is just for redundancy. 

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MacSack replied on Sat, Nov 7 2009 8:41 PM

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Oh wow, that's exactly what it is.  You are right... they  totally slapped 2 backup terminals on that POS.  Hahaha.  That's shameful. 

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TigerHeli replied on Mon, Nov 9 2009 5:12 PM

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I'm guessing the sub was just toast - i.e. hooking it up with only one of each pair of terminals to the amp still did not work.

100A fuse on 6-AWG wiring is a safety (fire) hazard waiting to happen, either run a smaller fuse (80A or less) or thicker wiring (4-AWG or better).

Hope This Helps!!!

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MacSack replied on Wed, Nov 11 2009 8:34 PM

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Yes, you guys have been most helpful!  I ran 4awg with a 80A fuse, ran one of each terminals o the amp and it is now working but to put it simply: the sub is "a paper weight".  Ya know, I purchased my  Scosche wiring package from walmart which included the 6awg lead wire and the 100A fuse.  I trusted their product and now I come to find out I was at risk!?  Very upsetting, they're getting a letter from me! Thanks again, you guys do great stuff on here.

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TigerHeli replied on Thu, Nov 12 2009 7:07 AM

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I don't know what wiring package you bought, and we can't LINK to competitors, but the Wal-Mart kits often aren't THAT bad.

They typically are 5-AWG or 9-AWG instead of 4-AWG or 8-AWG.

Keep in mind three things:

• The fuse ratings on BCAE1 are somewhat conservative - thin high strand count cable has more surface area than solid core wire and can carry more current and higher fuses.  BCAE1 does not want to be sued, so their fuse ratings are likely safe for solid core wire and if you run stranded, you can go a bit higher (most of the CF 8-gauge kits come with 60A fuses, although I think BCAE1 specifies 50A - generally not a problem, and I certainly don't typically go telling people not to use the 60A fuse that comes with their Streetwires kit from CF - although on the other hand, I also rarely say it is safe to go 10A higher on the fuse rating on BCAE1 either - if you are at the point that you are blowing fuses and 10A will make a difference, you are cutting it WAY too close on the wiring gauge).
• Definitely Scosche, but even the cheaper wire companies are aware of possible fire hazards and product liability issues with inappropriate fuses.  The problem is rarely that you buy a cheap 8-gauge wire kit and it comes with an overly large 100A fuse.  The problem is more often that you THINK you bought a 4-gauge wire kit, but it comes with 6-gauge wire and a 60-Amp fuse.  Putting a 100A fuse in it yourself should be okay, but is unsafe, but since they didn't sell it that way, you are liable rather than them.
• Your initial post said you had 6-gauge from the battery and then 5-gauge to one amp and 6-gauge to another.  I don't know what came from which kit, but a good analogy is pipe diameter in a sprinkler system, you need the largest (smallest number) wire closest to the battery.  At a minimum with what you had, you should have run 5-gauge to from battery and 5 or 6-gauge to the amps.  (The exception to the above would be if for example you KNEW the combined amps only required 6-gauge and you had a 1-foot section of 5-gauge and enough 6-gauge to run everything else - in that case, it is safe, but not recommended b/c any upgrade would likely need a re-wire).

Hope This Helps!!!

EDIT: typos ....