So I recently bought a used amp, a Pioneer GM-X862.I also just bought a new 12" DVC sub, the Infinity Reference 1252wNow, since this is a dual voice coil sub, I can either get a 2ohm or 8ohm impedance.Here are two examples of what I could do:http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/ca/learningcenter/car/subwoofer_wiring/1DVC_4-ohm_mono.jpgORhttp://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/ca/learningcenter/car/subwoofer_wiring/1DVC_4-ohm_2ch.jpgHere are my amp specs:Maximum power output --- 250 W × 2 / 760 W × 1Continuous power output ---125 W × 2 (at 14.4 V, 4 Ω, 20 — 20,000 Hz, 0.08% THD)380 W × 1 (at 14.4 V, 4 Ω, 20 — 20,000 Hz, 0.8% THD)190 W × 2 (at 14.4 V, 2 Ω, 20 — 20,000 Hz, 0.8% THD)Load impedance --- 4 Ω (2 — 8 Ω allowable)(Bridge connection: 4 — 8 Ω allowable)What would be the best way to wire my DVC sub up to this amp to get the most power out of it? Would putting the DVC in parallel (2ohm imped.) and putting it on channel one be the best? Am I able to do that, only bridge it (or can I not bridge a 2 ohm imped?)?Thanks for any help!
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Also, what if I hook up one coil to channel one, and the second coil to channel two? Is that a big NO-NO? The gain would match, and I could have both channels be from same input...
Edit2: Since my sub spec says "power range: 60-300 watts RMS (150 watts per voice coil)", if my amp says 190W, will that be to each coil, or a total to both coils?
First of all, great first post! You included all relevant model numbers, links, and specifications, something very rare for a first any post!
mbowen89:Would putting the DVC in parallel (2ohm imped.) and putting it on channel one be the best? Am I able to do that, only bridge it (or can I not bridge a 2 ohm imped?)?
That amp is not stable at 2ohms bridged to 1channel. You can run it at 4 or 2ohms in 2ch mode, or 4ohms in bridged mode.
mbowen89:Also, what if I hook up one coil to channel one, and the second coil to channel two? Is that a big NO-NO? The gain would match, and I could have both channels be from same input...
It isn't necessarily a "NO-NO" if you take the right precautions, but definitely not my first recommendation. You will need to sum the RCA inputs so each channel receives the same signal. The easiest way to accomplish this is with two sets of Y adapters back to back. The first set will combine the two separate RCA signals together, while the second set splits the new signal for the amp inputs. (Depending on your HU, it may have a dedicated sub preout that already does this for you, but YMMV.)
mbowen89:Edit2: Since my sub spec says "power range: 60-300 watts RMS (150 watts per voice coil)", if my amp says 190W, will that be to each coil, or a total to both coils?
If you don't want to change any of the equipment that you have, your two choices will be running each voice coil off a separate channel or bridged at 8ohms. Wiring each voice coil on a separate channel will give you 125W RMS per channel, or 250W RMS total fed to a 300W RMS sub; not a bad match. I don't usually recommend running voice coils on different channels of an amp (especially an older or cheap one) due to the inherent signal differences between the channels, but if you take the aformentioned precautions, you should be fine. Running at 8ohms bridged would be better for stability, but not sure about the power output at 8ohms.
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Thank you very much. I think I will indeed run it 8 ohm bridged, as I will get the most power that way.
My battery is actually in my trunk for my car, so power wiring shouldn't be too bad. 8 gauge with a 25A fuse would work for power, wouldn't it?
For the system remote control, I could just run a wire from my trunk to under my seat, with a simple switch, to turn the amp on and off...using 8AWG wire or so?
Just trying to cover all of my bases here! Thanks!
8 ohm bridged is your best option. You'll get 250 watts and the signal will be identical for both coils.
8 gauge wire and a 25 amp fuse will be fine.
You don't want to turn the amp on and off by disconnecting the power, that's the job of the REM input. For the turn-on remote, 8 gauge wire is not needed. It only takes a fraction of an amp to turn the amplifier on. Such a tiny current can be carried by virtually any thin wire. It became tradition to use a blue wire, but if you have some spare speaker wire that would work. Just label it and treat it as a hot power wire, only making connections with the battery negative disconnected. The switch idea is fine, but it also shouldn't be needed. If you can tap into your fuse box, run the turn-on lead off a circuit that is only energized while the ignition is on; maybe the cigarette lighter. A possible drawback is you may get a 'pop' sound from the sub when the head unit turns on or off, since the head unit won't be directly controlling the amp. There are inexpensive gadgets that can eliminate that problem, if you get annoyed by it.
Thread is a bit old, but the switch can be useful even with the REM connected to a switch wire for talk radio or something where you really don't want subwoofers.
Hope This Helps!!!
2002 Ford Focus Sony CDX-GT410u Sony XT-100HD HD Tuner Stock speakers, no amp, no subs
I know, and I just replaced my stock speakers this summer, and they sound amazing, so if I am listening to music that I prefer not to have my amp mixed in with... really easy to switch off! :)
I went with 10 guage wire for power... it should be fine!
Also, I didn't get any screws with my sub... and I need 8 of them. I have a 3/4" thick box. What size wood screw should I get? (Diamater) I can't find this anywhere... and I'd like to not make multiple trips to the store. Is there a standard? Also, if my box is carpeted, do i still put that sticky sided gasket on?
mbowen89: Also, I didn't get any screws with my sub... and I need 8 of them. I have a 3/4" thick box. What size wood screw should I get? (Diamater) I can't find this anywhere... and I'd like to not make multiple trips to the store. Is there a standard? Also, if my box is carpeted, do i still put that sticky sided gasket on?
There is not a standard, because different subs have different heights along the mounting ring. The thing to avoid is using a screw that goes all the way through the baffle into the air chamber. Screw holes tend to create leaks. If you used a 3/4" #8 exterior screw, you would know it couldn't penetrate all the way thru. Pre-drill those holes! I wrap a piece of tape around my bit so i don't puncture the box.
For the gasket, the sticky ring included with the subs is good. Foam weather stripping may work a bit better. Carpet doesn't make a good seal. Once your sub is in place, trace the edge of the mounting circle and use a box cutter or a good knife to cut away a ring of carpet where the sub touches the box.
I trust J Ro's advice more than mine on screw mounts, but wood screws and MDF don't work that well together. You could likely get a more secure and permanent hold with T-nuts or threaded inserts and machine screws, but I don't know how that would work for air sealing.
Anyone else have suggestions?
I don't like t-nuts and machine screws, but they can make the strongest bond between the sub and the box. They're probably stronger than the sub's frame, so careful not to over-tighten if you use them. They're a little more bothersome because you've got to seal them on somehow. Trouble comes when you're trying to thread them bad boys and hear a t-nut drop into the box. Seems to always happen on the last screw! Gotta VERY CAREFULLY back them all out and try it again. Those things are great if you get them all perfectly lined up and to stay put the first try, otherwise you're totally screwed- no pun intended!
Ok, well after reading what you guys have to say, and searching around.... I am still unsure.
I am going to be doing this today, so I will be going to the hardware store today.
I read that I could get some gold deck screws, and that would work fine. So my MDF board should work ok with a deck screw... and the "bracket" of my sub where I am sticking my screw through is only like 1mm thick metal. So what should I get: 3/4" or 1" deck screw?
I SHOULD pre-drill the hole? Should i use about a #6-#8 screw?
Edit: just read about sheet metal screws???
Thanks!
As J Ro said - don't get 1" screws if it's a 3/4-inch box.
Pre-drill, but drill for the shank diameter, not the thread diameter. (the core center diameter).
Sheet metal, pan head #6 or #8 or deck screws should all be fine.
I used 3/4" #8 deck screws, worked great! The gasket went on fine, etc etc... couldn't be happier... except I AM having some issues...
So here is how I have this all wired up:
A line output converter. It has 6 wires. 2 solid grey ones I heard were ground or somethign, so I didn't even hook them up. I then spliced a solid dark grey and a grey with black stripe to my right rear speaker wires, then did the same with the white and greyish wires to the left speaker. It has RCA obviously, 2 channels. On the bottom of the device are two adjustment knobs. So then I have RCA going into my amp. My sub is hooked up 8ohms bridged on the 2 channels. Here is the thing: if I adjust the knobs both to the right on the line converter, the bass goes away. I have to adjust one right, one all the way to the left. If I pull out one of the RCA from the amp, the bass stays the same. I can plug the one that is working into L or R channel on the amp, and I get same bass. The other one seems to not be doing anything though (because I have to turn it all the way left on the line converter to get ANY bass? so its off?). So lets say its acting like this and it would seem only one channel in is actually on. Of my head unit, if I pan to the center... I don't get that big of bass. As soon as I start panning to the left or right, my bass from the sub becomes linearly louder/bigger! What is wrong here?
Are the two channels working against eachother or something? My DVC subs coils doing something funny? Any clues?
Thanks! :)
Switch the positive and negative lead to one of the subs. They are out of phase.
Ahhhh, one of the channels is wired backwards. I had a feeling this might have been the problem... but I didn't know how the amp handles two channels in when it is being bridged.
I have always wondered this: when hooking up a speaker for example, it works whether you have + on + or + on -, right? It's just that when my amp is trying to combine two of them, and one is + on + and the other is + on -, that won't work?
Speakers aren't polarized... so it doesn't matter on them. It's just because the amp DOES need them to be polarized the same... am I getting this right?
Sorry but for some reason i was thinking you were using two subs. The proper wiring is HERE. If that's the way you already have it, you'll need to go back to your LOC and reverse one of the channels on it, bcuz it would mean your RCA's are wired out of phase.
Speakers are indeed polarized, though the magnet's shape doesn't give a definitive north and south the way a bar magnet would. If you connect a battery to the input leads, the sub's cone will go either out or in, depending on which way you have it connected.