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I'm out of my element with this one - anyone else want to take a stab at this???
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Pretty much your call on that one. The MRP-M1000 should be adequate for your subs, but I think the Kicker ZX750.1 would be pretty comparable to it. The ZX1000.1 is probably closer to 1200-1250W RMS, but your subs should handle that. It is probably higher quality. Would you hear the difference? Likely not. Is $100 for more power and better quality worth
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Hmmmn, the Batt, ACC, and GND connections seem to match the CF wiring info that I posted earlier, but the speaker connections DO NOT match, but I don't know if the radio is calling Pin 7 the same pin that CF is. You should verify that. I think you could wire in the relays like CF's wiring page says and be okay, but I would see what CF says about
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I'm thinking 400W would be good. Keep in mind 140W is 28% of 500W, 35% of 400W and you said the amp is conservative, meaning it might be doing more than that. CF recomends powering subs with at least 70%, but they've sold systems with as low at 40% and I've read reviews saying systems sounded fine with 50%. Also, I remember your MA Audio
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I'm missing some of the questions, and I didn't re-read the whole thread ... The PA is rated 500W RMS, but they have a rep for being generous with the ratings. That means it might be 400-ish W RMS. The Alpine is pretty close to 500W RMS - maybe conservative so maybe 550W RMS. Most users on here recommend a slightly larger amp than the subwoofer
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[quote user="srothfuss"]"it's better to have it, and not need it; than it is to need it and not have it."[/quote] Or " It's the one you really need to have. If you don't have it, that's why you need it. "
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These problems can be tricky to troubleshoot. It shouldn't need a whole day for the amps to cool, and some sort of amp rack with a cooling fan might take care of the problem. That said, in 1981-1982, I had a Craig head unit in Florida that would be staticky in the afternoon on all sources until the A/C ran for a half-hour, and nothing fixed it,
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As Alex W said, your friend SHOULD have hooked the LED's up to a sound reactive device - or he hooked them up to the INPUT side of the amp but then they shouldn't have flashed, or he just got lucky and nothing went South, but I don't see that as likely. Agreed - fascinating thread!!!!
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Ninja had the solutions, but a cap might well be the answer. If your battery is dying when you turn the system off and try to restart it, then the system is drawing more than the alternator can handle, and you will need to upgrade the alternator - a cap will only worsen the situation. If the lights are dimming, that is b/c the amp is pulling the voltage
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Thanks Malcolm, I didn't reply b/c Metra called it "Corporate DD", but there kit to fit a single DIN did not look like the pocket was full-height, so I think you are correct. OTOH, Metra's pics do not show a pocket below the radio - they show it right above the HVAC controls, so perhaps the pocket could be removed to make it fit .