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If you haven't done it yet, you will want to upgrade the "big 3". That means upgrading the factory wiring for 1 . the alternator to battery positive post... 2 . the engine to chasis ground... 3 . the battery to chasis ground. To add a battery come off the front battery positive to a fuse holder and fuse. Try to put it as close as possible
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I'm running two 15" DC Audio subs. You can see my whole build by clicking the link in my sig. I started out with two 15 Fosgate T1's before upgrading to the DC's.
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If you are going to go with two of either of those, then I would suggest a HO alternator as well. If you just go with one then I think you will be fine with just an extra battery or two. I am running two Soundstream PCX1500d amps in my truck on a stock alt (145 amp) and one extra battery and I don't have any problems.
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Well we really need to know what amp(s). The power rating of the subs doesn't matter.
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Can you describe how you have the sub wired. Can I assume you have tried adjusting the gain on the amp? How about the sub level output setting in the head unit menu?
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Let me know when you want to get serious.
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As long as the cone doesn't actually touch any part of the seat while playing, it will sound fine.
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OK. First of all....That is the worst customer service I've ever heard of. This guy obviously doesn't even know their own product line if he can't tell that the dust cap on that sub is supposed to be inverted. Collapsed? What a joke. Now on to your questions. What TigerHeli was talking about was puting a 1x2" piece of wood on the inside
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Wow! That's a horribly built box. What TigerHeli suggested would be a good way. Pulling the carpet back out of the way shouldn't be a problem. I'm sure it's "glued" down with the same quality as the rest of the construction.
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The slot port is about as simple as a ported box can be. The port shouldn't be that big. What are your max dimensions for the box?