Search results matching tag 'Amplifier'

Will my amp work with my sub?

Superman — Sun, 22 Nov 2009 15:41:21 GMT

I'm new to the world of subwoofers and amps. I don't know if it matters but my question is weather my amp will work to well with the sub i have.

I have a old lightning audio b250.1 amp and a boss audio ch12.

The amp is rated at 250 RMS at 2 Ohm and 500 peak at 2 Ohm. the sub is 250 RMS and 500 peak but the problem is it the woofers impedance is 4 Ohm.

Is this a problem? Will they match up? Does the Ohm make a difference? Is there a better amp or woofer to match up?

Thanks

UPS, AVS, HTS...overkill?

rover3d — Tue, 27 Oct 2009 02:34:09 GMT

Had such good luck with info from Tiger Heli and Ninja 1234 thought I'd try again; let's just say it's a tough week electronically.

I live in an area of constant power surges, brown outs and brief outages. There is a backup generator (on a 2 second delay) in case of blackouts and professionally installed surge protectors as well. Over the years, my AV system has grown to include an HTS 5100 line conditioner, an AVS 2000 voltage stabilizer, and a UPS 1000 battery supply. The UPS worked fine for about a year, but now blips out and needs a power reset constantly. Last time, not even that worked (battery fault indicator light stayed on), though I was able to get power back the following day through sheer luck and a reset.

So, now that I've been doing the homework I should have done before, I have questions about what has already been installed in my (oversized) home AV system.

If both the Monster AVS 2000 with its onboard transformer and the Monster HTS 5100 protect against surges and condition the flow, are they redundant?

If not, and given the gazillion available outlets the combined 2 units offer, should the 5100 be plugged into the 2000 or the other way around?

If using both is advisable, then does it matter which is the primary, direct "plug-in" source for the individual AV components (preamp, mixer, amp, CD players, cable box, receiver, etc.) since both power units offer digital and analog outlets as well as switched and unswitched options or is it advisable to divide the power drain by using both components as sources?

And, finally, does all of this make the UPS meaningless? I seem to have burned out the UPS 1000 battery in less than a year and it has actually required more babysittin and resets of the system than before the UPS unit was installed. Is it likely that the UPS just can't handle the load and is not necessary for protection or ease of use?

Sorry for the overabundance of questions, but before I either take the UPS out of the chain and plug the HTS into the AVS, zap myself into smoke, or decide to call in the pros, I'd like to be semi-literate. Any replies welcomed, and thanks...

Finding the correct Gauge kit and Placement of Sub in 1997 Corolla

Steenz — Fri, 07 Aug 2009 15:42:27 GMT

I have a 1997 Toyota Corolla and I am installing a Bazooka 6" powered sub and I need to find the best location and the right kit to install this

help with ohms!

MjT248 — Sat, 01 Aug 2009 03:06:14 GMT

i have two 12w3,s there 4ohms and a jl 500/1 amp. im pushing 2ohms to them now but when i turn the input sensitivity up more towards 3 to 4 ohms the bass gets much louder. can i do that with out damaging the subs? or should i keep it at 2ohms. it just sounds alot louder when higher and not sure why.

Looking for expert "OK" so I can pull the trigger on this rig

Gesha — Mon, 27 Jul 2009 17:27:04 GMT

Alrighty, hi everyone.

Looking to improve my sound system with an amplifier. Not running stock at the moment - have an Alpine PLT-5 LAT powered subwoofer in the trunk which kicks out enough bass to please me. I don't need folks from 2 city blocks away being able to hear me coming - but maybe the guy blasting his cheapo stock stereo paired with terrible junk music - that guy needs to be drowned out and taught a lesson in car audio.

Anyway, the sub is good enough and I am happy with it. I have JL Audio TR-650's in both rear deck and front doors - front doors have the CSi variety with the tweeters and crossover separated from the woofer. These things are rated to take 50W RMS at 4 ohms. Unfortuantly, thats where we run into problems. Currently they are driven by my head unit, which is the Alpine IDA-X001 ipod controller. LOVE that head-unit btw. If you own an iPod, you have to get one of these, well not the X001, go for the newest version which is the X350. But I digress. The output is a measily 18Wx4 RMS and the amp quality is...well who am I kidding... its not quality at all.

The system sounds pretty darned good at lower volumes, but the amplifier distortion becomes very apparent just before the magical volume level that I desire - hence I am forced to listen to music at levels below what I prefer. Not to mention that it gets very boomy since the Sub is so much more powerful then the speakers - so I have to keep adjusting the level to match the music genre that happens to be playing at the time. Well, long story short, I figure putting in a dedicated amp with a high-pass filter (edited) to preserve the speaker woofers will rectify this last annoyance and get me some real premium sound.

The amp im looking at is the ALPINE MRP-F300. It's gotten excellent reviews and at 4ohms it seems to perfectly match my JL Audio TR650's. In addition I will also be upgrading all the stock wiring (speakers currently use stock speaker wire) at the same time. What do you guys think?

Thanks!

AMplifiers and volume normalization

marine — Tue, 21 Jul 2009 03:13:33 GMT

Is there an amplifier that can provide constant output once you set the volume- Case in point is the problem of TV commercials- As we know, when the commercials come on, volume increases- This has been a problem for 20 years- Has the technology moved to a new level and an amplifier can actually control the volume output and keep the volume constant whatever the source input can be-

Tech Terms Demystified: Impedance

Ralph — Mon, 20 Jul 2009 17:37:00 GMT

Impedance is one of those tech terms whose meaning is just close enough to its general definition to cause some confusion. In everyday language, an impedance is a hindrance — an obstacle to be overcome. Electrically, impedance is a neutral term — part of the physical properties of electrical components.

In a simple direct current (DC) circuit, the signal moves in one direction. There’s only one force at play – resistance, and resistance is simply how well — or how poorly — the system transfers the current. But the connection between home or car amplifiers/receivers and speakers uses alternating current (AC). Impedance describes the resistance to the flow of energy through an AC circuit, plus the other factors that affect current transfer when power continually alternates direction.

Make sure to match receiver/amp impedance to speaker impedance
Impedance ratings (measured in ohms) help you match home or car speakers to a receiver or amplifier. For speakers, this spec tells you the resistance to the flow of power from the amplifier or receiver. (All amplifiers or receivers must encounter some resistance to function properly.) The impedance spec for amplifiers and receivers tells you what the minimum recommended speaker impedance needs to be for the component to operate within a safe range. When you match the impedance spec of your amplifier or receiver with your speakers, you ensure that they’ll operate in harmony with each other.

Why the impedance spec matters
Using speakers with a higher impedance rating than the receiver or amplifier will result in an underutilization of the component’s potential power output. For example, if you connected speakers with an impedance of 16 ohms to a receiver rated at 8 ohms, then the speakers would get about the half the power the receiver could potentially deliver. While the amp wouldn’t be producing its full output, the difference in maximum potential volume would be relatively small.

But the consequences are much more serious when using speakers with a lower impedance rating than the amplifier or receiver. Connecting 4 ohm speakers to an 8 ohm amp or receiver may seem like a good thing. After all, if mismatching one way halves the power to the speakers, then mismatching the other should double it, right?

Yes, but that’s a bad thing. When your receiver or amp doesn’t encounter sufficient impedance, it pushes out more power than it was designed to safely provide. The component’s heat sinks get overwhelmed, causing the temperature inside the unit to get dangerously high. At best, the receiver or amp will simply shut itself off. At worst, if the heat builds up faster than the component’s safeguards can react, it can seriously damage the unit’s circuitry.

Remember: A good rule of thumb is to try to match the impedance ratings of your speakers and components.

2000 GMC Jimmy Bose Amp

moviejunkie — Thu, 25 Jun 2009 05:26:44 GMT

I am installing a aftermarket HU in a 2000 GMC Jimmy and I need to know where the bose amp is located, I can not find it anywhere...HELP

THanks Jason

First Time Buyer: considering a simple upgrade over stock but have questions

philparty — Tue, 23 Jun 2009 05:00:36 GMT

I recently got my first car: a 2000 volksvagen beetle but have been driving it for years. I have never been impressed with the car speakers so I want to upgrade them but not substantially because I do not want to invest too much in this car and I do not need 'loud' blasting music. I just want something crisp and clear. Although I had not considered getting a reciever at first I did decided to settle on getting one: the http://www.crutchfield.com/p_130P6000UB/Pioneer-DEH-P6000UB.html?tp=5684&tab=features_and_specs (pioneer deh-6000ub), particularly because of its ipod connectivity and cd (also good looks!).

I have submitted my car as my vehicle on outfit my car and it tells me that I have Rear Seat Side Panels: 6-3/4" but Front Door: 6-1/2" speaker sizes. Also I have a "factory speaker not" on my front speakers that says that no speakers match my size exactly. That being said, I have come to like the Alpine sps-600 type-s 6-3/4" 2-way speakers (http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500SPS600/Alpine-SPS-600.html?tp=105&tab=features_and_specs). Under the product image, it says that these speakers fit in my rear seat side panels. Although the title of the product states that it is a 6-3/4" speaker, the small description under its title states that it does fit in 6-1/2" openings.

I have multiple questions regarding my soon-to-be endeavor into car audio:

Can I purchase two pairs of these speakers to outfit my car's four openings, particularly will the pair of speakers fit in my front openings?

If I get this reciever and the four speakers will I need to get an amp for them to work? (like I mentioned, I am not looking to blast music or have my car audio heard 100 yards away, I just want it to sound good). Also what would the consequences be if i do not get an amp?

Please I am open for suggestions. If you feel I can use any other products that would make my situation work out for the best please let me know. Thank You

felling bass in front seats coming from trunk

vwboy69 — Wed, 27 May 2009 18:02:02 GMT

my friend has a honda accord and last summer he bought a amp and sub box off of craigslist,and when we installed it you can feel bass in the back seat but not as much up front.we recently just turned his sub box so the subs are facing the back of trunk,a little more bass in back but not as much up front, he has a sealed box with 2 10'' infinity subs not sure which model,just know that there green,and there powered by a pioneer 300W,any suggestions,bigger amp,etc.

also he wants good bass but doesnt want trunk noise/

Thanks.